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Saturday, December 01, 2012

Dreaded Border Crossing Mexico-Belize in Chetumal

An easy three-hour ADO bus ride took us from Tulum to Chetumal; a quick six-block walk brought us to the Mercado Nuevo station where buses leave for Belize every 20 minutes; another 15 minutes on the bus and we were in line to exit Mexico.  Over the last month, we have been reading much about the border crossing "scam" at this particular border. Namely that the 295 peso Mexican tourist tax which is already collected in our airplane ticket is attempted to be doubly collected and pocketed by an evil immigration man.

So when we walked up to the booth with passport and FMM (tourist form) and were told to pay 295 pesos, my stomach lurched nevertheless.  Then, after some reasoned resistance on our part, the man said we do not pay him, that we pay at the bank. We still refused.  At this point our bus abandoned us, refunding 20% of our fare, no less!

We had read that other travelers simply leave the annoyed immigration man behind and move on.  We tried.  Twenty yards later, we were intercepted and were "invited" into the Immigration Office.  We restated our case.  They stressed that we were not asked to pay them directly, but to pay at the bank.  They explained that the airlines are no longer collecting and giving Mexico the tourist tax.  They tried to scare us by calling in the police.  Seeing that we were unfazed by the threat of police, the lady in charge seemed to realize that there is the possibility -- the airlines are collecting the tax but withholding it.

The lady jefe let us use her computer to try to pull up our electronic receipt, but delta.com
was blocked, so was mail.google.com.  She got someone in Mexico City on the phone and was told that code "UK" listed in the "taxes and fees" details of an airline ticket indicate that the airline has collected the tourist tax.  She had an employee write down our information to draft a complaint to the airlines.  After another phone call, she sent us to an internet cafe to get a printout of our ticket.  When we came back with our printout showing the "UK" fee, she asked us to write down our story to add to her case, then apologized for the hassle. 

Needless to say, we left Mexico without paying the 2 x 295 = 600 pesos (about 45 US dollars) at the border, but did invest two hours of our time and a few pesos at the internet cafe.  Other travelers have reported being scammed, coerced, and threatened, but I did not have that feeling at all with the particular people we dealt with.  I feel they were hardworking people trying to do their job in a confusing situation. 

So if the end result is 1) Mexico gets their tourist tax from the airlines and 2) other travelers can get out of double paying by showing their airline receipt, then our time was very well spent making the world a more just place and lessening ill feelings.

John admits he is baffled by the whole experience and can't decide if
1. It is all a very elaborate conspiracy and scam on the part of the Mexican border officials
2. Mexico has ineffective and/or poorly trained border control
3. We are simply "ugly Americans"

In any case, we have had our share of border crossings, this one tops them all.

Thursday, November 29, 2012

Tulum Ruins

Armed with a decent night's sleep, a tasty breakfast of pastries washed down with above average instant coffee, two liters of water, a few snacks, hats, umbrellas, sturdy boots, sunscreen, bug repellent, and a few pages torn out of a guide book, we set off under cloudy skies for the 3km walk from our hotel to the Mayan ruins of Tulum.

The walk was straight forward, not unpleasant, and we entered the site about 9:30 (57 pesos each) just as the first tour groups arrived. Tulum ,a compact Mayan ruin perched on limestone cliffs overlooking the Caribbean Sea, was formerly a walled trading sea sea port but is now occupied by a steady stream of tour groups

Sun-Lings says the ruins were underwhelming and crowded but since we are Chinese it was OK. haha

We left the ruins at noon, had some tasty snacks called kekais on the way home, rested in our hotel room, ate more antojitos for dinner, and went to bed early as we need to get up for our 8:30AM bus to Chetumal and onward to the Mexico-Belize border.

The Tulum ruins from the southeast corner looking north.
Tulum, Mexico

The Tulum ruins from the northeast corner looking south.
Tulum, Mexico

Tulum, Mexico

Antojitos.
Tulum, Mexico


Tuesday, November 27, 2012

To Tulum

After two flights, including a dash-for-the-gate in Atlanta, and two easy bus rides, we arrived in Tulum, Mexico about 4PM local time. The dash in Atlanta left us wondering if our luggage had made the connection, but no worries, both bags came out on the carousel in Cancun.

A layover between buses in Playa del Carmen was just long enough to wander down to the beach and gaze over at Cozumel and watch the ferry unload. A busy place!

It took longer than expected to find a room in Tulum, many places were full, but we are established at very nice place, had a couple of plates of veggie antojitos for dinner, and are finishing our daily chores.

Hasta luego!

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Working on the itinerary

I have been consumed with trip planning since we bought the plane tickets.

As always we have more crazy ambitions than slotted time.  Luckily we killed our going-to-Cuba-illegally pretty early on.  We are now down to Mexico, Belize, Honduras, El Salvador, and Guatemala, bagging a whole of four new countries, which would have made me gloat in the old days.

The US State Department has been surprisingly helpful.  Normally we regard their travel warnings with disdain.  However, this time they saved us a TON of time and agony of prioritization.  We will only be visiting and revisiting the 13 out of the 14 states (no Baja for us) that bear no travel advisories.   I have always loved everything about Mexico.  I hope I am not disappointed this time, expectations, expectations....


 

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

Merchants Mill Pond Camp and Paddle


After 2 months of fruitlessly watching the weather for a stretch of consecutive weekdays with sunny skies, we headed off to Merchants Mill Pond State Park near Gatesville, NC on the Friday of Veterans Day weekend with our tent, canoe, and gear.

Although the canoe campgrounds were full on Saturday night, the family campground where we stayed was half empty, and we spent 3 peaceful days, paddling, enjoying AM and PM campfires, and soaking up the daytime sun.

While we did not spot a lot of wildlife, there was a variety: turtles, deer, racoons, beaver lodges but no beavers, geese, flickers, pileated woodpeckers, crows, daddy longlegs, and a kingfisher. The resident alligator was nowhere to be seen.

Campsite.
Merchants Mill Pond State Park - near Gatesville, NC

Reflections on the pond.
Merchants Mill Pond State Park - near Gatesville, NC

Favorite lunch spot on the mill pond.
Lunch Spot - Merchants Mill Pond State Park - near Gatesville, NC


Highlight of the trip: paddling up Bennet's Creek at the east end of the pond.

Up Bennett's Creek - Merchants Mill Pond State Park - near Gatesville, NC

Tight spot on Bennett's Creek.
V - Merchants Mill Pond State Park - near Gatesville, NC


Beaver Lodge.
Beaver Lodge - Merchants Mill Pond State Park - near Gatesville, NC

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