Mexico City - Part II - Art and Architecture on Ash Wednesday

A day of architecture and murals. After taking in the Zocalo, we hit the National Palace to see the Diego Rivera murals, then the Education Building to see more Rivera murals; the Bellas Artes building, the Post Office, the Diego Rivera Museum, the Alameda, the Monument to the Revolution, and a few churches - it was Ash Wednesday.

It's hard to get a good photo showing the vastness of the Zocalo - here's a video shot during the flag lowering ceremony.


Charging stations for electric taxis just off the Zocalo.


One panel of Rivera's The Epic of the Mexican People mural at the National Palace.


Tourists taking in another Rivera mural on the 2nd floor of the National Palace.


Some Rivera murals at the Public Education building.








The Main Post Office (Correo Mayor).



The Art Deco National Lottery Building - Architect: Jose Cuevas - 1930's.


A few shots of and from the Art Deco Monument to the Revolution - Architect: Carlos Obregón Santacilia.






Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park by Diego Rivera.


Edificio La Nacional with the Seguros Latino America building looming behind.


Bellas Artes.


And finally, folks strolling on Madero after Ash Wednesday services.

Mexico City - Part I - Peacocks and Hairless Dogs

Returning to Mexico City after 9 years we wondered how the city had changed and how we had changed. Nine years ago we flew in from North Carolina, rode the Metro to Allende station and walked a few blocks north in the early evening to Hotel Habana. The sight of policeman with guns startled us as we walked up República de Chile to República de Cuba and it was a few days until we realized that in Mexico, policemen with guns is a sign of good security, not the reverse.

This time we bused in from Irapuato and rode the Metro to Allende and walked a few blocks south to Hotel Washington, just a few blocks from Hotel Habana. There were even more police with guns than in 2003, but after 4 weeks Mexico, we barely noticed - our new normal. A twist: Hotel Washington was unable to provide Internet as advertised, and after one night we moved to Hotel Cuba just one block from Hotel Habana.

Mexico City, called DF or simply Mexico by Mexicans was great. Plenty of vegetarian restaurants and more things to do than we could squeeze into 5.5 days. We'll be back for sure.

On our first full day, we headed south on the Metro, then the Tren Ligero (light rail line) to the Dolores Olmeda Museum. Lots of Diego Rivera paintings, not murals, a few Frida Kahlos (most were on loan to a traveling exhibition), more peacocks in one place than I've seen in my entire life combined, and a herd of hairless dogs.

Within an hour of our arrival in DF we were having a vegetarian meal with a view. Woohoo!


The lobby of the Art Nouveau Gran Hotel.


Cathedral with helicopter.


The daily flag lowering on the zocalo made more difficult by high winds and temporary exhibition halls.


Peacocks at the Dolores Olmeda Museum.


Hairless dogs with imposter at the Olmeda.


Tren Ligero pulls into La Noria station.


Creation, a mural by Diego Rivera in the Anfiteatro Simon Bolivar.


Los danzantes de Chalma, a mural by Fernando Leal at the College of San Ildefonso.


And finally John with fish (painting by Pedro Diego Alvarado)

Irapuato y Salamanca

A change for us; we were met at the bus station in Irapuato by Luis, a friend of my cousin, and we stayed in his "extra room" for two nights.

Downtown Irapuato was quite lively on Friday night: a fountain show (see video below), music, and dancers. On Saturday we first checked out the ruins at Peralta, then on to downtown Salamanca which was pretty dead, but the Templo de San Juan was spectacular.

Many thanks to Luis for having us and to Steve V for recommending Templo de San Juan!

Downtown Irapuato with churches and fountains.




Dancers.


At the Peralta Ruins: Luis, Sun-Ling, John, and Abelardo.


Some shots from the sumptuous and sophisticated Templo y Convento Agustino de San Juan de Sahagun in Salamanca. Simply awesome! Check out the crowns in the bottom shot.

Guanajuato

Heading to Guanajuato (Gto), we wondered if it would live up to its reputation as a highlight of Central Mexico.

Unlike most towns we visited on this trip, there was nary a glimpse of Guanajuato as we approached the bus terminal which is just a few kilometers outside town. Then, even from the local bus into town, not a sign. We entered and exited several tunnels, then got off at the Mercado Hidalgo stop, still in a tunnel. But when we popped up out of the tunnel our first views of Gto were of the Art Deco Cine Reforma and the beautiful Mercado Hidalgo. Woohoo!

Gto is lively - it's a University town. Every evening the energy of the students and townspeople seems to flow into the area around Jardin de la Union, which one guide book describe as "everyone's living room."

Our friend Dayle joined us for a couple of days and we walked, toured, ate some tasty vegetarian food, and downed a few more micheladas. Guanajuato is definitely a place we'll visit again!

Tasty Indian-Mexican vegetarian fusion served up at Centro Bharati.


Templo de la Compañía de Jesús dome - inside and outside.




Cathedral and Plaza de la Paz a dusk.




Mercado Hidalgo - outside and inside.




The dazzling 3D retablo at Templo La Valenciana.


Red white and blue.


Great views of centro Guanajuato from the Mirador El Pipila, not to mention the funicular ride up.




Teatro Juarez at night.


We were surprised to see a very good Art Nouveau building near La Presa.


Universidad de Guanajuato.


Cheese Enchiladas with mole.

San Miguel Allende

It was an easy transfer by bus to San Miguel Allende in the state of Guanajuato and we end up in a good hotel in a great location in Centro.

San Miguel Centro has lots of historic buildings but it lacks the energy of nearby Queretaro and Guanajuato. Many US and Canadian citizens have retired here and it's common to hear English spoken around town.

As usual we had some tasty food (pizza one night), visited museums, galleries, churches, and parks, and made one daytrip to the nearby town of Atotonilco.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel at night.


View of Centro from mirador. That's Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel with pink towers.


Art.


Ice cream.


Nuestra Señora del Rosario in the Santuario at Atotonilco.


Rapper.


Freshly steamed garbanzos (chick peas) and roasted corn in the San Miguel Mercado.


Not only did our hotel in San Miguel, Casa de Huéspede, have a great owner and a great location, it also had this cool deco stairway.