Unremarkable Aix

Aix-en-Provence first caught my attention from a Joseph Covington lecture series at the NCMA twenty some years ago.  However, during our trip research, both of us pegged Aix as a tourist trap, not worthy of an overnight.  From our plebeian base of Marseilles, we made the obligatory day trip to the patrician Aix, anticipating the sweet taste of self righteousness.

1. Aix is small.  The only thing that is worthy of the town's grand reputation is La Rotonde, the round fountain, though the square around it is being remodeled.  In fact, half of the town seemed to be remodeled, as if they are readying themselves to be an European cultural capital.

2. The town is so lacking in tourist attractions that it has to tout the walking tour of Cezanne.  After coming across his sister's residence and his mother's funeral site, I stopped paying attention all together.  It's not like he is Marx or Einstein.  I like Cezanne well enough, but not that much.

3. Another thing Aix promotes is its markets, so we timed our visit for Tuesday, a market day.  The main drag was completely lined with big booths, almost 100% tourist shoppers, 99% goods almost definitely not from Provence.  I wonder what their vetting process is like to allow such common peddlers for such a classy town 🙄

I'd probably be happy enough to live in Aix, but as a tourist destination, Aix does not have much to recommend for itself.

La Rotonde.


The Tuesday Market.


The footsteps of Cezanne.


The vegetable market in the old town town center did have that locals-shop-here feel.


Fixing up the square in front of the Palace of Justice; with an in-progress archaeological dig.


The new theatre.


The best part IMO of the trip to Aix was twice walking through the Marseille St Charles Train Station (to and from the bus station). Wow! It's perched above the old port with great views, and with a magnificent staircase taking you up, or down, to or from, street level. Not to mention the old school roof; and the trains.

Likable Marseille

We are finally having warm and sunny weather.  In fact, it's bordering on hot.  I'd better not complain.  In three days we went from winter to summer.

1. Since we are in the middle of French school holidays, there are a lot visitors in town, but Marseille is the second largest city in France, the city carries right on.  It's just more lively.

2. Marseille is full of viewpoints everywhere you look.  The old port is really special.  John pointed out that the port is like their giant square, at the bottom of a bowl.

3. Marseille is a working city, a microcosm of history, civilization, and population.  Marseille was Phoenician, Greek, then Roman.  Today, one third of the population are of Italian descent, one third are Muslims, and there are sizable Eastern Europeans and Asians.  Though Marseille suffered much from WWII, the vibrancy of the city throughout its long history is evident everywhere, including many current projects.

We are glad to have discounted all idle rumors about Marseille (Rhonda: we stand with you), We should have scheduled at least a whole week instead of five nights.

For a second time this trip we ride a FLixBus - Nice to Marseille. Again it was delayed (before we boarded in Nice) by the Italy/France border crossing.


Here's shot from the bus of typical leafy Marseille streets as we head down to the Marseille St Charles Station (bus, train, and metro all in one station).


Marseille's Old Port is the spot to hang out at all hours of the day or night. Our apartment was about 50 meters from the quay of the Old Port. We just could not get enough of it.




This "sign" was always mobbed.


And so was this mirror-roof.




The various tourist cruises were always busy as well as the "tourist trains" and open air buses.


The tall ship Hermione was in port and left port while we were there.




We walked out of our apartment each morning to this.


If we stuck our head out of the one window at night, we could see the harbor below and the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde above.


We were also just 5 minutes from great sunset views. We went out everyday for the sunset.






The Old Port continues to fix and repair small boats.


A view of the port from Fort St Jean.


A cool sky bridge connects the fort with the MUCEM museum complex.


MUCEM.


Les Docks - once a warehouse, now shopping.


Ferries from/to Corsica and Algeria arrive/leave from Marseille.


Here are 2 shots of a ferry to Algiers head out at sunset.




CMA-CGM shipping has a big brand new HQ building at the modern port. I was busted for taking pics close to the tower. ;-)


Marseille as a very good public transport system including these trams.


And folks cycle, skate, scoot or segue around town.










Le Panier District up the hill behind our apartment - the oldest district in Marseille.


The Cathédrale Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Marseille.


Some night shots around the Old Port.














One day we took on a long walk east along the Marseille waterfront; then over to Unite Habitation the famous building designed by Le Corbusier, then Metro=>bus up to the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde.










Marseille "built" a long stretch of public beach with nice facilities: changing rooms, wind surfing, restaurants and more.


L'Unité d'Habitation designed by Le Corbusier.


Roof.




View from building roof to the modern stadium (Rolling Stones this June!) and adjacent mall and transport hub.


View to mountains.


Rooftop view to the sea.


Metro is old-ish but speedy.


View from the Basilique.