On our second nicest day in Genoa, Easter Monday, we went to Cinque Terre. We skipped Cinque Terre in 2001, thinking it overhyped. This time it is right along our route. Actually going there might make us feel more self-righteous.
1. Cinque Terre is mis-managed
Cinque Terre is famous for the four sections of trails that connect the five towns. Back when we were researching, we learned that two of the four have been out more than a few years. The Park website and app showed all four are out. Other websites show only two are out. When we arrived the tourist office in Riomaggiore told us the three were out and the fourth one might closed for various times, if there are too many people.... Everyone has a different version!!! And the open lower tails cost 7.5 euros to walk and 16 euros to train and walk.
2. Cinque Terre is tourist trap
When I was looking for train schedule and ticket info, I noticed that the train pricing is non-linear, i.e. on the same train, going to a station (La Spazia) beyond the Cinque Terre stations is actually cheaper than any one of the 5 Cinque Terre stations you pass on the way. I have only seen this pricing strategy with airports before.
3. Cinque Terre is only for foreigners.
I suspected so and came across an account confirming my suspicions. But on this beautiful Pasquetta, I estimate half of the hikers on the trail to be Italians. In fact, as we waited at the train station to return to Genoa, a young couple from Milan waiting for the same train told us that the speedy IC to Milan that left the station just 15 minutes prior had been fully booked for some days, so they were going home on the slow, 3.5 hour Regionale. Thus, we were not quite correct on this point, at least not on Pasquetta.
So, on Easter Monday we took the train from Genoa to Riomaggiore, went to a few viewpoints, took Trail 501 up to the road (SP370) for 1km including a 300m tunnel (all on the sidewalk), got on 506 to Volastra (alt: 335m), then 586 (flat), which ended in a junction with 587. And instead of going down to Corniglia (since trail Corniglia - Vernazza was supposed to be closed), we went up on 587 to Case Pianca, continuing north on the road (SP51) for 300m, before going up again on 587 which then joined the AV5T near the ridge top, a few hundred meters later, at Cigoletta (alt: 612m), we began to descend on 507 to San Bernardino, at which point we switched to the road (SP61) for the final 3kms to Vernazza. After 2km on the road, there was a parking lot and the last 1km to Vernazza was virtually car free.
We had decided that Vernazza was going to be the end of our Cinque Terre walk. As we had one hour to catch our train. We decided to walk out to a viewpoint where 507 would have brought us out had "Corniglia - Vernazza" been open. After we enjoyed the view as much as we could, there was still time left, we decided to continue for another 5 minutes. Right around the corner, there was a checkpoint and a park ranger. He was explaining to the people in front us -- the trail is open, but not officially, go at your own risk. to us he said "It's closed but it's open". John and I looked at each other with dismay, turned right around for the train station, enough of this misdirection -- we are out of here...Actually it was a wonderful day of hiking and we luckily snagged seats on the very crowded trains back to Genoa.
Just like yesterday for the portofino walk, we are out of the apartment before sunrise and standing beside the tracks in Genova Piazza Principe waiting for the 7:11 towards La Spezia.
And after awhile we find ourselves in Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of Cinque Terre. Note that we use the apps Orux and Mapy to locate viewpoints.
We take an elevator up to a sealed road. This is the immediate view down to Church of San Giovanni Battista of Riomaggiore.
And we walk up to even a higher road and cross the bridge, traverse the tunnel, and take the trail up to Volastra, not one of the Cinque Terre villages.
Good view back to Riomaggiore.
Sun-Ling leads through the tunnel. She is NOT fond tunnels.
Now we can see down to Manarola.
On the trail, up, up, up to Volastra.
Volastra is at 335 meters above sea level and a good place to take a break.
Olive Groves.
And the view back to Manarola.
As we walk along this mostly level section through the terraced vineyards there are views ahead to Corniglia and then Monterosso far in the distance.
The lower trails being closed makes this section of the upper trail to Case Pianca busy; but we are all enjoying the scenery and sun.
It's a another superb day and we are thinking it's great to be walking the higher route. So what if the lower trails are closed.
We spot Corniglia.
A cyclist comes by. He's almost at the peak of the road, but we have another hundred meters up to the AV5T.
It's the nicest part of the trail so far today through the holly trees.
And views north.
We are at the high point of the day; 611 meters above sea level at Cigoletta on the AV5T.
And still another view South to Corniglia.
We head down to Vernazza.
In the next 2 shots, check out this framer in RED pants on his mini cog railway, tending his terraced fields. Wow!
Here's a closer look at a one of the cog railway trains that we see "at rest" a few kilometers farther down the hill.
A panorama from Sun-Ling's phone camera.
We arrive at Vernazza and it seems to be quite the sleepy town...
...until we reach the train station!!!
And some shots from the Vernazza viewpoint. Some folks say Vernazza is the prettiest of the five Cinque Terre villages.
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