Saturday, November 09, 2019

Inca Road in Tarma

We never felt any draw to the Macchu Picchu Inca Trail. When I learned the Inca Road went by Tarma, I was determined to step on it, between Huasqui and Tarmatumbo.

1. As soon as we got to Lima, I bought some generic Diamox at a pharmacy to help me acclimatize, given my poor past record. I started doping the last day in Lima.
2. The day before the hike we provisioned our lunch from no fewer than five vendors.
3. We walked all over the town trying to scope the route of the combi to maximize our chance of catching one.

We set out extra early in the morning. It was cloudy and started to sprinkle. I was NOT going to let a little rain derail my major adventure. We had no trouble catching a ride. However, by the time we got to Tarmatumbo, it was steady rain, thick and dark clouds. We tried to wait in the covered plaza, but eventually it got too cold. We caught another combi right back to Tarma. It was super anticlimactic.

We then became full converts of https://www.clima.com and our dueno also assured us it'll only rain until midday. We ended up picnicking in our room and then set out again, this time to Huasqui.

1. We ended up having a wonderful walk, ascending from 3450m to 3860m. Many parts of the trail, one can easily make out the retaining walls constructed by the Incas, including remnants of a stone bridge, after which signs of the ancient road disappeared, though ancient terracing is all around. I am now convinced if it weren't for the diseases brought by Europeans, Peru would be as populated as China.
2. Along the trail, there were all kinds of desert plants, which eased my guilt of hubris of the morning. No wonder I was thinking -- how much rain can they get here?!
3. The highlight had to be the picaflor gigantica, giant hummingbird (lat: patagona gigas), especially seeing all the depictions of hummingbirds in the alfombras.

Our attempt to walk from Tarmatambo to Huasqui, south to north, was rained out. Here's the view from Tarmatambo at 8:06 am.
Heavy Drizzle over Tarmatambo, Junin, Peru

Later in the morning the skies clear and we decide to walk north to south and are dropped off at noon at an unassuming lane in Huasqui, the beginning of this section of the Inca Trail.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

The first kilometer is the steepest section and we soon have great views, this one back to Huasqui.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

A mine of some kind, and above it, the switchbacks of the main Lima to Tarma road.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

More flowers than expected.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Feeling good.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

After 2 or 3 kms we get our first look at Tarma, at the far end of its fertile valley.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

At this point the Inca Trail climbs slow and steady up to the pass at 3860 meters. Occasionally the trail is either overgrown with agave or in disarray so we walk on a path along side.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Sun-Ling spots the giant hummingbird flitting between two agave flower spikes. Wow!
Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas) - Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

The recent rain has brought some color to the high desert.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

After walking 5kms, the top of the pass is in sight. It's a beautiful saddle with views in both directions. We stop for a rest and a snack=granadillas.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Lunch Break - Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Then down thought a most colorful landscape to the old Inca Bridge.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Sun-Ling is pointing to old Inca terracing.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Sun-Ling is standing near the columns of the old bridge.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

That's it for the Inca Trail, but we still have 4 or 5 kms downhill to Tarmatambo, a nice easy walk on a contemporary dirt road with the sun behind us and the Golden Hour approaching. Life is good.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Finally below the tree line.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

And Tarma reappears from behind the mountain.
Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru

Walking the Inca Trail from Huasqui to Tarmatambo - Junin, Peru





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