From Kashgar we got on the train northeast to Kuqa, more to break up the journey. The city is not exactly a tourist hotspot. As much as we love train travel, I despise China Railways. They may have many more kilometers of tracks, it's still the same terrible service with cigarette smoke filled cars and small seats (five across). Their dreaded website only accepts Chinese phone numbers. When we arrived in Kuqa, the two of us were kept back for extra check, except the young man they sent didn't speak English or Mandarin Chinese. I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. John says: There has been a change for the better on Chinese trains: the conductors and coach attendants are no longer surly, but professional and friendly.
Disembarking from the Kashi (Kashgar) to Chengdu Train at the Kuqa (Kuche) Railway Station. Second below, the front of the train station, with the station name in both Chinese (left) and Uighur (right) in Perso-Arabic script.
Kuqa was a post on the Silk Road. Until it was taken over by Turkic speaking Muslims in the 8th century, Kuqa was the capital of the Kucha Kingdom of Aryan people that spoke the Indo-European language of Tocharian, now extinct, written in Brahmi script and followed Buddhism. There are preserved Buddhist cave paintings outside town. Unfortunately we were not energetic enough to organize an expedition.
Today, Kuqa's fortune is tied to oil and gas in the region. The old town is said to have the second largest mosque in Xinjiang, rebuilt in 1931, but didn't look to be used for services any more. The young woman that sold tickets explained - all the people have moved to the new city. I was dying to ask more questions, but didn't want her to feel uncomfortable or get her in trouble. Also there are an old city wall and beacon towers.
It is obvious there has been a concerted effort for tourism development in the old town. There are various stages of building up shops and restaurants, not to mention horse cart rides. I imagined Kashgar must have been redeveloped the same way. The 1759 Kucha Palace (1st below) has been reconstructed, originally built by the Qing as a reward for the local chief that fought on the Qing side that ultimately took over all of present day Xinjiang.
The tastiest noodle soup ever! With potato noodles, tofu noodles, seaweed noodles, pulled wheat noodles, and sprouts.
Geely Galaxy L7 Electric Vehicle.
The night market.
The Kuqa Mosque.
How about this mannequin seen on the streets of Kuqa?!
Spicy Noodles (left) and Mushrooms (right)
Jiucai Hezi
Handmade Cotton Comforter Shop
On the City Bus in Kuqa
Fav drink shop
Night lights.
Dumplings and Potatoes for Breakfast
for Breakfast.
Noodles again for lunch.
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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