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Friday, October 31, 2025

More Rio: Veg Restos, House Museums, Art Deco, Forts, etc.

There is much more to Rio de Janeiro than beaches and historic buildings: vegan restaurants, house museums, art deco condominiums, headland forts, not-so-high lookouts, and bicycles porters. We enjoyed it all from our apartment base near the General Orosio metro station.

Our apartment for the week, at Rua Souza Lima and Pompeia, was just minutes from the Túnel Sá Freire Alvim and the Cantagalo Favela above.
Cantagalo Favela above the Túnel Sá Freire Alvim  - As seen from the Intersection of Rua Raul Pompéia and  Rua Souza Lima  in  Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

And the apartment was a few blocks from the Sunday Morning Hippie Market at General Osorio Park.
The Sunday Morning Hippie Market at General Osorio Park - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View from our apartment at night.
View from our Apartment - Copacabana,Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

We ate by-the-kilogram for lunch at Bardana Cozina Natural Vegan Restaurant, R. Soza Lima, 37. And we are now hooked on tapioca salgados com queijo (with cheese) after consuming more than a few at the Friday Market (2nd and 3rd below) in Ipanema.
Lunch at Bardana Cozina Natural Vegan Restaurant - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Savory Tapioca Bread - Friday Market at Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Savory Tapioca Bread - Friday Market at Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

John was tempted to have a veggie burger at Acougue Vegano (Vegan Butcher Shop), but opted for a vegan "chicken" milanesa instead.
Acougue Vegano (Vegan Butcher)  - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Acougue Vegano (Vegan Butcher)  - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

One day we walked along the Lagoa to Parque Natural Municipal da Catacumba. On the way it was obvious that the lake is well used (when the weather is good).
Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Ice Cream! - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Beisebol - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

There are 2 viewpoints/lookouts/mirantes at Catacumba, one of which should feature Christ the Redeemer when the weather cooperates. But no worries, we enjoyed the park.
Parque Natural Municipal da Catacumba - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Urubu Lookout - Parque Natural Municipal da Catacumba - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

On the way back to our apartment, we stopped in at the free (with guided tours on the half-hour) Casa Museu (House Museum) Eva Klabin. Worth the time for sure!
Casa Museu Eva Klabin - Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Casa Museu Eva Klabin - Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Casa Museu Eva Klabin - Lagoa, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The Friday Market at Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz (video 3rd below).
Friday Market at Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Fish Market - Friday Market at Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Preparing the Tapioca Flour - Friday Market at Praça Nossa Senhora da Paz - Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Due to traffic and parking, working bicycles are everywhere; as porters, vendors, and icemen.
Working Bicycle - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Porter - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Mobile Bicycle Vendor - Copacabana Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Copacabana Art Deco Architecture. Edificio Ypiranga is first below.
The Art Deco Edificio  Ypiranga - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Edificio Guahy - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Edificio Begossi - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The Roxy - Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Thursday, October 30, 2025

Rio: The Beaches

We based ourselves at the south end of Copacabana where it meets the east end of Ipanema. By statistics, it is one of the most densely populated urban areas in the world. Confoundingly, the streets are not lively. Everyone must spend all their outdoor time at the beach. Yet, there is so much nature nearby - capybaras by the lake, and monkeys in the hills or even in the neighborhood. Still, the allure of Copacabana/Ipanema eludes me.

On the one beautiful sunny day we experienced in Rio, the Zona Sul beaches were full of activity. Plus, one direction of the beach road was closed to vehicular traffic allowing walkers and cyclists to roam unimpeded. And we could see the Cristo (3rd below)
Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View to the Cristo from Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Beach volleyball, with hands, or with heads and feet, is very popular. And on sunny days there must be hundreds of games in progress.
Volleyball School - Leme Beach  - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

We visited Arpoador Rock (1st below) on a cloudy day. The surfers don't mind the weather; the Surf School has some business.
Arpoador Rock - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Arpoador Rock - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Praia do Arpoador - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View to Ipanema - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Surf School - Praia do Arpoador - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

And there are also views to Cristo, and Sugarloaf.
View to Cristo from Arpoador Rock - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View to Sugarloaf from Arpoador Rock - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Foggy or sunny, the cyclists are out.
Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Bike Shares - Copacabana - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The views from the beaches are amazing in any weather. We walked out to the Leme lookout and the Leme Fort on a foggy day.
Mirante do Leme - Leme, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Leme Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View from Forte do Leme - Leme, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View from Forte do Leme - Leme, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View of Copacabana Beach from Forte do Leme - Leme, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Forte do Leme - Leme, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

And on a less cloudy day the beaches are still popular.
View to the West at Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View to the East - Copacabana Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Copacabana Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

View to the  South at Copacabana Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

In several places along the beaches, John spotted temporary sprinkler systems getting their water from a well-and-pump combo. His conjecture is they are used to cool the sand for walkers.
Well and Pump of a Temporary Sprinkler System - Copacabana Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Temporary Sprinkler System - Copacabana Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

Bonus ginormous beach pano. ;-)
Ipanema Beach - Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

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