Brazil: The Pantanal - Part One

From Paramaribo we headed to the Northern Pantanal Wetlands, at the top of our Brazil itinerary, a place that wasn't even on our radar before we started trip planning. Not inscribed in UNESCO until 2000, Pantanal is the world's largest tropical wetland. During the wet season water covers 80% of the area, sustaining a rich ecosystem of flora and fauna, at the same time discouraging human settlement. The dry season ends in October so we decided to head to the Pantanal first, considering our investment - the budget tour we signed up costs more than our last minute top end Galapagos tour in 2010.

Because of the high cost and our lack of experience with such tours, the approach wasn't immediately obvious. Pantanal South is cheaper, but you are unlikely to see a wild jaguar. We decided on the North. And since we didn't want to drive, and considering the multiple legs and modes of transports, we decided on a budget tour - the way you see jaguars is by a boat tour from Puerto Jofre in Rio Cuiaba and its tributaries. Our tour also spent a night at a ranch on the drive to Puerto Jofre. It was explained to us "budget" just means the accommodations are at more modest places, still with AC, ensuite bathroom, and hot water. We were sold - as long as we see some jaguars, I won't complain about the big price tag.

In the end I could hardly have expected better outcomes. The lodges even had internet through Starlink; a little spotty. Our tour turned out to be a "private" tour, which seems rather extravagant to us. I now realize the other "budget" part must be a less experienced guide. We adored our young guide Dani. She more than made up with her enthusiasm and dedication. It felt like we were having an adventure together. She was so resourceful that she magically turned up a birthday cake for John in a village that barely boasts a little store. Furthermore, not only our guide, but also our car drivers and boat driver and their friends all were genuinely excited about the wildlife, not mere economic opportunities for them. It was a most authentic experience

We did see jaguars. We saw our first jaguar on the drive to Porto Jofre. There were no other cars around. The usual way to see jaguars is with lots of other boats, 30 to 40 of them in July and August, 10 to 20 this time of the year, according to Dani. Nevertheless I finally saw some big cats in the wild. We saw capybaras, the largest rodent that just got on my radar earlier this year from the animated film Flow (2024) https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4772188. We saw the ginormous jabirus storks, the symbol of the Pantanal, nesting. We saw hundreds of caimans, more kingfishers than our whole lives combined, probably more species of fauna in the wild than our whole lives combined... I could go on.

There was an additional price we had to pay, willing or unwillingly. I had a bee sting and a dozen bites, mostly of unknown origin. John had hundreds of bites around his torso (sorry no photo). We pulled off a total of four ticks.

While adding photos to this post, John realized we need a separate post just for the boat tour. Stay tuned for Part Two!

On the Road from Cuiaba to Pouso Alegre Lodge. Our SUV had AC and Starlink Wi-fi. Nice!


Once we entered the Transpantaneira Highway, it's a dirt road all the way to Porto Jofre. Lots of wildlife to be spotted. And our guide Dani and driver Aaron, would often pull over to view them on the vast open savanah.


Rhea flightless bird.


Great Black Hawk


Our lunch at the Pouso Alegre Lodge was briefly interrupted as we hurried out of the dining hall to see a pair of Blue Macaws in a nearby palm tree.


The afternoon car safari was delayed a few minutes for a thunderstorm to pass. No problem.


The Rufous Hornero and Nest. Wow! The mud nest looks like a catcher's mitt.


Capped Heron


Capybara Herd.


Before sundown we hung out at a water hole. A Crab-Eating Fox walked by, as did a few Black-necked Aracari, the cousin of the Toucan.






The highlight of the night safari was spotting a tapir swimming in a large pond. Video 3rd below "Courtesy of @ddanirc".






The next morning we were up at 5:15 am for a sunrise walk. Video 3rd below is a caiman swimming across a waterhole.






After breakfast, Dani led a nature walk that crisscrossed the Pouso Alegre Lodge acreage, ending atop the 100 ft Observation Tower. One of the walk highlights was seeing the elusive Great Potoo (2nd below). Photo 4th below "Courtesy of @ddanirc".










After lunch we drove to Port Jofre. There were many wildlife sightings on the way; for example, a Jabiru Stork Pair, a Caiman, and a Great Blue Heron (1st below).


Marsh Deer.


Jabiru Stork Nest.






Southern Screamer Adult and Chick


Jaguar on the bridge! Stop! 2nd below is a video courtesy of our guide Dani (@ddanirc).




Lots of cattle on the savanah. We waited for 10 minutes at this bridge for them to all cross.


A few more videos of our tour courtesy of @ddanirc