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Saturday, April 25, 2026

Sardinia: Iglesias

On Holy Thursday we went from the north to the south of Sardinia, to Iglesias. Many people were traveling home for the holiday weekend. There were processions on Thursday evening, Friday morning, and Friday evening. While they were mostly the same, Friday saw a lot of spectators. We have grown to be used to not seeing crowds in the last couple of weeks in Corsica and Sardinia.

Iglesias (Spanish for "churches") derived its wealth from mining, as far back as Roman time. We took the bus to the coast at Nebida, walked to Masua, then returned by bus. The walk turned out to be a stage of the 500km Cammino Minerario di Santa Barbara. We realized the hills around Iglesias must be rich in minerals. From the bus and along the walk, we saw a number of abandoned mining sites.

The transportation from Sassari to Iglesias: bus -> train -> train ->bus.
By Bus and Train from Sassari to Iglesias, Sardinia

By Bus and Train from Sassari to Iglesias, Sardinia

By Bus and Train from Sassari to Iglesias, Sardinia

For Holy Week in Sardinia, church altars and chapels are decorated with flowers and su nenniri (sprouted grains).
Altar with Su Nenniri (Sprouted Grains) - Holy Week - Iglesias, Sardinia

Su Nenniri (Sprouted Grains) - Holy Week - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Holy Thursday - Iglesias, Sardinia

And there are special Easter pastries, pardulas or casadinas, in shop windows. Not sure which is shown below as the difference is in the cheese fillings; both have the "small sun" shape.
Pardulas (or Casadinas) - Iglesias, Sardinia

In addition, these large, gift wrapped, chocolate Easter eggs with a surprise inside, were very popular. Sometimes it seemed that everyone walking on the streets was carrying one.
Gift Wrapped Chocolate Easter Eggs - Iglesias, Sardinia

Most processions, including this one, Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows, were led/announced by 2 or 3 pairs of young men swinging noise-making "ratchets", followed by a solitary, solemn drummer. Check out the videos below
Video: Ratchets Lead the Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Video: The Solemn Drummer - Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

The narrow streets were crowded with onlookers so we circled around to the Duomo to rejoin the procession.
Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

We were not sure at first, but there were both men and women under these enormous white hoods and "puffy shirts" outfits with black gloves.
Procession of Our Lady of Sorrows (Processione della Madonna Addolorata) - Iglesias, Sardinia

One day we rode the bus to Nebida, walked to Masua, the site of a huge mine, and returned to Iglesia by bus. Below is the view from the Nebida Belvedere.
We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

On the very, very scenic walk to Mausa we ran into folks walking the blue-signed CMSB (Cammino di Santa Barbara)
We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

The mine.
We Walk on the Cammino di Santa Barbara from Nebida and Masua, Sardinia

Another evening, we followed the Procession of the Descent from the Cross. The narrow streets were packed with people. Check out the men with fake beards and turban-like headgear. Notice the soldiers. And look for the photos where women in street clothes are carrying the large cross.
Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

Procession of the Descenso (The Descent) - Iglesias, Sardinia

City Hall lit in the Italian colors; and we walk around the narrow streets of city center. Look for the blue moon rising just over the buildings at upper left.
City Hall - Holy Thursday - Iglesias, Sardinia

Holy Thursday - Iglesias, Sardinia

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