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Wednesday, May 13, 2026

Greece: Vergina Royal Tombs

On Easter Monday we went to Vergina. Vergina was the original capital of the Macedonian until the 4th century BCE, later the burial grounds of royalties. It was a major event for the archeological world, when the tomb of Philip II, Alexander the Great's father, was unearthed in 1977, previously unlooted, certainly not for lack of trying. The finds are very fine. I was particularly impressed with the vessels, present by whole sets, metal, not ceramic, and inlay benches, though not preserved, the richness I have not previously encountered, regardless of age.

We also walked to the nearby small theater, where Philip II was assassinated 336 BCE. There is also the palace, partially restored, considered the largest building from Classical Greece.

On the way back while waiting for our bus, we also looked around in Veria, a rather interesting place. It looks to have been quite a cultural crossroads of Orthodox Christians, Muslims, and Jews.

The super cool and 20th-century futuristic KTEL Macedonia Bus Station.
KTEL Macedonia Bus Station - Day Trip to Vergina, Greece

The Museum of the Royal Tombs is located inside the Great Tumulus (burial mound), adjacent to the actual tombs! See photo below of Sun-Ling entering the subterranean entrance.
Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

Entering the Great Tumulus and Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

One of the amazing artifacts found in the tomb of Philip II was this gilded quiver.
Gilded Quiver - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

We walked right up to, but not inside, the tomb of Philip II and admired the frieze.
The Tomb of Philip II - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

The Tomb of Philip II - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

The bones of Philip II were found inside this funerary urn. Check out the beautiful star on the lid.
Funerary Urn - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

Ceremonial Iron and Gold Armor and Shield of King Philip II
The Ceremonial Iron and Gold Armor and Shield of King Philip II of Macedon (Father of Alexander the Great) - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

The Ceremonial Iron and Gold  Shield of King Philip II of Macedon (Father of Alexander the Great) - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

Ceremonial Silver and Banquet Vessels
Ceremonial Silver and Banquet Vessels - Museum of the Royal Tombs of Aigai (Vergina) - Vergina, Greece

After the museum, on to the ruins of the ancient theater and Palace of Aigia.
Ancient Theatre where Philip II was Assassinated in October 336 BC - Vergina, Greece

Palace of Aigia.
Palace of Aigai - Vergina, Greece

Palace of Aigai - Vergina, Greece

Palace of Aigai - Vergina, Greece

Palace of Aigai - Vergina, Greece

And finally to the Polycentric Museum of Aigai which tries to give some context to Ancient Macedon.
Polycentric Museum of Aigai - Vergina, Greece

Polycentric Museum of Aigai - Vergina, Greece

Notes to fellow travelers: We spent what seemed like countless hours deliberating whether to take a tour or bus, since bus info was not easily forthcoming. We finally concluded a tour simply would not give us enough time. Taking the bus was not easy. First you take a city bus to the Macedonia KTEL station https://maps.app.goo.gl/jxodmH5sqH1h3SZ97, not to be confused with KTEL Thessaloniki at the train station. From Macedonia KTEL there are at least hourly buses to Veria (schedule available online). The hard part is Veria to Vergina. There are no schedules online. When we had our hotel call the Veria station, we were assured they would do a normal schedule on Easter Monday. Of course when we arrived in Veria, there was zero bus on Easter Monday to Vergina, so we taxied, rather painless. While at Veria KTEL, we convinced ourselves there normally is bus service between Veria and Vergina. From Veria to Vergina, the schedule is at the bottom of the page, https://ktelnimathias.gr/?page_id=1376. From Vergina to Veria, the schedule is in the middle of the page under ALEXANDRIA-MELIK-VERIA, the missing Sunday schedule is MELIK-VERGINA-VERIA 9:30, 14:00, 18:30, in other words, on Sundays the bus turns around at Melik.

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