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Saturday, August 01, 2026

Wales: Conwy + Llandudno + Caernarfon Castle + Penrhyn Castle + Bodnant Garden

From Oxford we had a miserable travel day, because of cancelled, overcrowded trains. We originally had designs for a 4-hour stopover in Chester on our way to Conwy in North Wales. The delays ate up all our time; we went straight to Conwy.

On the Train from Oxford, England to Conwy, Wales

Conwy was much smaller than I had expected, but rather likeable and medieval, founded in the 1200s, after King Edward I of England's conquest of Wales, to establish colonial power. It still has its medieval walls and castle. The castle was closed while we were there in preparation for filming of a feature film based on a video game. The rumor is it's Elden Ring, filmed in Imax with a $100 million budget. We were also mesmerized by the harbour's impressive tidal range and sturdy pair of bridges.

The Medieval Fortress of Conwy Castle (built 1283 to 1287) in North Wales - Conwy, Wales

Conwy, North Wales

Conwy, Wales

Conwy, North Wales

Conwy, North Wales

We originally had plans to climb Mount Snowdonia, but the weather was not good enough. One afternoon we popped over to Llandudno to have a quick look. Llandudno was founded by Edward Mostyn by converting public land to private land through Enclosure in the 1840s.

In the following decade, the railroad came to Llandudno, connecting it to the industrial heartland. In recent decades airplane travel has connected the industrial heartland to far greater places. Llandudno has held on surprisingly well, in fact I was thinking we should have based ourselves here, better selection of accommodation. One could say it was another version of Brighton in North Wales. See photos below of the Llandudno pier and promenade.

An Afternoon in Llandudno, North Wales

An Afternoon in Llandudno, North Wales

An Afternoon in Llandudno, North Wales

Another day from Conwy, we got a day ticket on the bus - we rode 5 and 5C - and made the rounds.
  • Caernarfon Castle, another one of the King Edward I castles, like Conwy Castle, forming the "Iron Ring" of control and domination.
  • National Trust Penrhyn Castle, not a real castle, but rather a grand house built in the style of a castle with profits from four Jamaica sugar plantations totaling 1000 slaves. There was William Morris wallpaper in situ!
  • Bodnant Garden is known for its 160ft laburnum tunnel and it was in full bloom. It was glorious. John - now I see what other people are trying to do with real or fake plants, around the world. The gardens were gifted to the National Trust while the McLaren family still owns the house and 5000 acres; no direct connection to slaves and colonies. The McLaren's wealth came from chemical inventions and industrial ventures.


Bus 5C, plus Caernarfon Castle and its huge parking lot.
Bus 5C - We Visit Caernarfon Castle - North Wales

We Visit Caernarfon Castle - North Wales

We Visit Caernarfon Castle - North Wales

We left Caernarfon by bus, rode for about 15 minutes, then walked about 30 minutes in a light rain to Penrhyn Castle.
We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

And the Penrhyn Garden
We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

The highlight of the National Trust Bodnant Garden is the Laburnum Arch, flowering when we visited!
The Laburnum Arch - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

The Laburnum Arch - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

Round Garden
Round Garden - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

The family's manorhouse.
Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

The Terrace Garden
Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

Pin Mill and Reflection, Lily Pond, and Canal Terrace
Pin Mill and Reflection - Lily Pond - Canal Terrace - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

Himalayan Blue Poppy
Himalayan Blue Poppy - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

The view from the Lily Terrace and its semi-circular Lily Pond.
Lily Terrace and Pond - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

More gardens.
Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

Giant Starflower - Bodnant Garden - National Trust - Conwy, Wales

We Visit Penrhyn Castle and Garden -  Bangor, North Wales

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