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Wednesday, November 04, 2026

Croatia: Split Revisited

25 years ago we arrived in Split on a bus from Dubrovnik. Underwhelmed by our quick look, we got on an overnight bus to Zagreb without sleeping in Split. This trip, thinking we shortchanged Split, we made a point of overnighting in Split.

Split's change in the last 25 years is astounding. Each day there are two or three cruise ships in port. The day we arrived there was a trade fair, and Macron was in town. The place was a zoo. I was in shock.

To the west of city center is Marjan Hill where there are several popular viewpoints; however, there is also a huge park with high coastal paths. We ended up walking there two days in a row, and loved it, such an oasis, such an escape!

We left Zadar just after sunrise on a green FlixBus. ;-)
Sunrise from our Apartment in Zada Dar,lmatia, Croatia

On the FlixBus from Zadar to Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The view from the bus of a picturesque small bay in the village of Bilo.
A Small Bay in Bilo Village - On the FlixBus from Zadar to Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Welcome to Spilt - Cruise ships in town!
Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Cruise Ship in Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The highlight of Split is Diocletian's Palace, constructed as a retirement residence for Roman Emperor Diocletian and completed in 305 AD. And the center-of-the-univers of the palace is the Peristyle (Peristil), the central Roman Square inside Diocletian's Palace. Most visitors enter the palace through the Underground Cellars (below).
Entrance to the Cellars - Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Then into the amazing Peristyle, watched by a 3500 years old black granite sphinx Diaocletain imported from Egypt.
Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

My only memory of Split from 2001 is sitting in the shade on red cushions in the Peristyle.
Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Walking to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower was our fav activity in Split; we did it twice. To get fueled up, we stopped at Ela's for ice cream.
We Stop for Ice Cream at  Ela's Gelateria Artigianale - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Many folks were walking to the first several viewpoints.
Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

But not as many continued to Telegrin Peak, the highest point on the hill, and with great views back to Spilt Old Town, the Adriatic Sea, and to the Stadium.
Telegrin Peak - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

View from Telegrin Peak - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

View to the Stadium - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

A chilly wind blew at the top of the newly opened Observation Tower,
Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Observation Tower - Walk to the Marjan Hill Observation Tower - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The cruise ships are here!
Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Art Nouveau buildings in the Old Town: Nakic Palace (1st below), Sulphur Baths (2nd)
The Art Nouveau Architecture of Nakic Palace - Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The Art Nouveau Architecture of the Sulphur Baths (Zgrada Sumpornih Toplica) - Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Split is more quiet after sunset as the cruise ship passengers are back to their boats. And maybe the ship has pulled out of port.
Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Looking to the Peristyle (Peristil) The Central Roman Square Inside Diocletian's Palace - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The SPAR Supermarket Inside Diocletian's Palace!
The SPAR Supermarket Inside Diocletian's Palace and Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Passion Fruit (L) and Pistachio (R) Ice Cream - Gelateria aMare.
Passion Fruit (L) and Pistachio (R) Ice Cream - Gelateria aMare - Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

The Massive Bronze Statue of Gregory of Nin (1929) by Ivan Meštrović. The statue is a local icon!
The Massive Bronze Statue of Gregory of Nin (1929)  by Ivan Meštrović  - Golden Gate- Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

(2026) Sign of the Statue of  Statue of Gregory of Nin Playing A Left-Handed Red Hollow Body Guitar - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

Trg Republike (Commonly Known as The Prokurative)
Trg Republike (Commonly Known as The Prokurative) - Old Town - Split, Dalmatia, Croatia

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