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Thursday, October 24, 2019

Into Canyons and Along the Inland Sea

Upon leaving Joshua Tree National Park, we crossed I-10 onto Box Canyon Road, a very scenic road at the bottom of an ever-more-beautiful canyon, recently paved, only reopened last month.  However, in order to get to our trail head, John had to drive the BEETLE 4.7 miles on a sandy, gravelly, unpaved road with much washboard action.  The Ladder Canyon/Painted Canyon trail consists going up 5-6 aluminum ladders at the beginning of the Ladder Canyon, essentially a slot canyon, ending up along the rim of the wider Painted Canyon for a stretch, then going down to the bottom of Painted Canyon, continuing back to parking, with 2 more ladders towards the end.  It was super fun.  In my mind, the drive was more challenging than the trail itself. 

Afterwards we continued our epic drive on CA-111 on the east side of Salten Sea, a one-time accidental byproduct of water engineering.  Since a) there is no outlet, and b) the fresh feed < the evaporation, the sea is receding and becoming increasingly salty.  We stopped at Bombay Beach.  Not surprisingly, it has the best post-apocalypse-look of all the places we have been around the world; not to mention it's more than 200 ft below sea level.  We also stopped at a wildlife refuge.  There were surprisingly many flocks of water birds flying around, e.g. hundreds of great blue herons! 

Next, we drove by some Ricardo Breceda sculptures in Borrego Springs, on our way to have a quick walk to the Palm Canyon in Anza Borrego State Park; did not spot a single big horned sheep.  The drive back to San Diego took us to 4000 ft on the Montezuma Valley Road.  Being a Friday afternoon, there were many cars going the other way heading to the high desert, something we understand now that we have been initiated.

The drive up to Ladder Canyon was white-knuckle for me. Here's a shot on the drive back to the main road - I was almost relaxed.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

It's called Ladder Canyon for a reason.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

We had lots of fun walking up the slot canyons.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Some video.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon, Mecca, California

Link: https://flic.kr/p/2hzvSzR

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon, Mecca, California

Link: https://flic.kr/p/2hzt3wN

After a few wrong turns we finally made it out of the slots and up onto a ridge with great views around ...
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

...and after a few kms we walked down into the canyon on the right to return.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

How could we make a wrong turn with trail markers like these. ;-)
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

After a few kms on the ridge we head back to the trailhead on a much wider canyon, though there are still several ladders.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Cool geology.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

The canyon walk is mostly flat through wide washes but there are 2 ladders at the one narrow section. And, there are swarms of bees at the top of each ladder. Yikes! Lucky it was just a short scramble around them, then down the ladders.
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

And we are almost at the trailhead. Easy walking. Whew!
Ladder Canyon Trail - Painted Canyon - Mecca, California

The subsequent drive down Rt 111 along the eastern shore of the Salton Sea was pretty cool. We stopped in at Bombay Beach, a former resort, now a ruin. You can see the sea in the distance.
Salton Sea, Bombay Beach, California

Salton Sea, Bombay Beach, California

We passed a train along Rt 111.
Salton Sea, Bombay Beach, California

And made a quick stop at Salvation Mountain before spending the night in Brawley.
Salvation Mountain - Niland, California

The land around the southern shore of the Salton sea is irrigated. Much hay is grown, presumably to feed the thousands of cattle we saw in a giant feedlot. Stacks of hay bales like this are ubiquitous.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

The southern shore also boasts the Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge; an area where bird habitat has been reclaimed.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California
Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

The Salton Sea, at ~225 ft below sea level, is indeed salty, and traces of salt are seen everywhere.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

We've never seen so many Great Blue Herons in one place.
Sonny Bono Salton Sea Wildlife Refuge - Brawley, California

We left the refuge and on a whim took a back road down to the sea. Stark. A dry wind was howling and a coyote ran across the near horizon.
Salton Sea - California

Salton Sea - California

Our last stop in the desert is Anza-Borrego Desert State Park where we walk up to the Palm Oasis. Hot.
Borrego Palm Canyon - Anza-Borrego Desert State Park - southern California

Borrego Palm Canyon - Anza-Borrego Desert State Park - southern California

Borrego Palm Canyon - Anza-Borrego Desert State Park - southern California

It's nice under the palms and we eat our lunch.
Borrego Palm Canyon - Anza-Borrego Desert State Park - southern California

Palm Oasis - Borrego Palm Canyon - Anza-Borrego Desert State Park - southern California

And finally, the famous serpent sculpture by Ricardo Breceda.
Borrego Springs, California















Tuesday, October 22, 2019

Joshua Tree National Park

Not being huge fans of deserts, we thought we were merely coming to Joshua Tree National Park to check it off the list.  Well, I underestimated the splendor of Joshua Tree.  I loved the open desert dotted by Joshua trees and other desert plants, punctuated by piles of gigantic rocks.  The most surprising part was the number of animals we observed.  Of course, I had expected zero, regardless whatever the guidebooks said. 

In all, we enjoyed every excursion we chose to do, in chronological order:

  • Hi-view trail: we actually got confused and walked the wrong way from the parking lot, but I ended seeing my first jackrabbit and had a 360 sunset view.
  • Rattlesnake canyon scramble: super fun, difficult to find the way.
  • 49 palm oasis trail: very hot walk, there was actually small pools of water in the oasis.
  • North entrance to West entrance drive
  • Hidden valley trail: I don't know why it wasn't more crowded
  • West entrance to South entrance drive
  • Ryan mountain trail: what a view from the top!

On Thursday morning we drove in the park, there was a sign that said -- all campgrounds are full.  They have 500 sites too.  I am just glad we are finally catching onto the lure of Joshua Tree.

Sunset view from near Hi-view trail.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Some pics from our Rattlesnake Canyon Scramble. An early start meant we were mostly in the shadows for the first hour.

SL doing "The Scramble".

Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

Our route alternated between scrambles and easy walks up a flat gravel and sand washes.
Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

This route was a dead end.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Rewarded with a view back to the valley. You can see our red VW BEETLE in the parking lot.
Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

Into a wash.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

SL takes a break near the turnaround point.
Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

And we head down.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

It was a hot walk to the 49 Palm Oasis, but worth it....Looking back to the parking lot.
Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

The trail leads to the oasis which is barely visible at upper right.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

The oasis of California Fan Palms.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

There's a lizard near the trail.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

We stop into a Joshua Tree Visitor Center and walk through another palm oasis.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Some migrating turkey vultures.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

A beautiful late afternoon drive back to our hotel. Thousands of Joshua trees.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

We stop and walk the short Hidden Valley Trail. Wow!
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

It's been a hot day. I have a streak of salt on my shirt back.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

The next morning we drive south through the park, first stopping for a walk to the top of Ryan Mountain at 5400 ft above sea level and a 360 view.....A look down to the road.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

A look back to the trail.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Near the the top.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

We were surprised to see such colorful vegetation.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

At the top of Ryan Mountain.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

I take a 360 panorama.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

A Joshua Tree.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

A snake (some kind of racer) on the trail on the way down.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

And an hour of more than awesome vistas as we drive towards the southern end of the park.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Looking over an alluvial plain to Pinto Mountain.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California










Monday, October 21, 2019

Into the Desert

The one benefit of our usual style of stealing out of town in the dark of night is that our flight arrived at the San Diego airport at 10:00 am, plenty time for touring. As soon as we picked up our red VW BEETLE from Avis, we bee-lined for the high desert, via the scenic Route 74 and Palm Springs, which on this particular Tuesday afternoon seemed rather sleepy, and ended up at Yucca Valley, our chosen base for visiting Joshua Tree National Park, with its abundance of services compared to Joshua Tree city or Twentynine Palms.

Our first view of the desert above Palm Springs.
near Palm Springs, California

near Palm Springs California

The very eye catching mid-century modern Tramway Gas Station in Palm Springs.
Palm Springs, California

Palm Springs, California

And a bonus drive along the nearby wind farm.
Palm Springs, California

As soon as we dropped off our bags at the hotel in Yucca Valley we drove into the hills for the sunset at Snow Peak. On the short walk up Snow Peak we were startled by a huge black-tailed jackrabbit - sorry no photo.
Joshua Tree National Park - southern California

Joshua Tree National Park -  southern California

Monday, October 14, 2019

First a Wedding, Then Peru

Hey All!

Tomorrow we fly to San Diego to attend the wedding of a son of a lifelong friend. Then it's on to Peru. We'll start in Lima and end in Arequipa via Tarma, Huancayo, Ayacucho, Cusco and Canyon de Colca. We'll be back in Raleigh in the 2nd week of December.

Stay tuned for a few posts from Southern California.

-john and sun-ling

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