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Sunday, April 03, 2022

Puig Roig Circuit

From Soller we transferred (bus -> train! -> bus) to our next base at LLuc. Though not even a village, the LLuc monastery having been a pilgrim destination in the past, now runs a hotel, and there is a bus that delivered us right there.

Having learned our lesson with crossing private land, we checked with the Park Headquarters at Lluc. The Puig Roig (Mount Roig) circuit can only be done on Sundays, when the gates through two different farms (one towards the beginning, and one towards the end) are open for hikers. Needlessly to say, I was oblivious when I made our reservation for Saturday through Tuesday. Our Sunday program is now clear.

The hike was very interesting, that it went through so many different terrain - valleys with olive groves, rocky coasts with stupendous views, long stretches wading through the high grass, and the asphalt highway's stream of cyclists - a panorama of what I think of as Mallorca hiking. We encountered only a few dozen hikers, fewer than I had expected, considering it can only be done once a week.

Catching the train to Inca at Palma Station (Sun-Ling w/red bag). Train Station - Palma, Majorca, Spain

View from the train to rocky peaks in the west. On the road from Inca to Lluc, Majorca, Spain

We got off the train at Inca Station and caught a bus to Lluc. On the steep uphill of Coll de sa Batalla we passed one cyclist after the other. [The scene out the back window of the bus] - On the MA-10 from Inca to Lluc, Majorca, Spain

At the Sanctuary in Lluc, we had a cell room in this building. Santuari de Lluc - Lluc, Majorca, Spain

Getting started on the Puig Poig circuit. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

Part of the circuit is on the road shared with sheep and cyclists. ;-) Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Cyclists - Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

We turn off the paved road, through the normally locked gate, and around Puig Roig. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

First through a working farm. Myself - Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Sheep! - Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

We take a snack break with a view to the valley on the other side of Puig Roig. We'll walk through it from right to left in a few hours. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Sun-Ling making progress up to the pass. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

Short video of the beginning of the pass. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

A view to the sea before we veer to the left. Check out the hiker in the red jacket ahead of us. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

Parts of the trail are easy walking. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

The back side of Puig Roig is along the rocky coast. There is a lot of tall grass and it's not always easy to see the trail. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

The last 5 miles of this 13.7 mile walk are on a paved road through a beautiful valley. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

The usually-locked gate on this side. Still a few miles to go Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

View as we exit the valley. Hiking the Puig Roig Circuit - Lluc, Mallorca, Spain

Thursday, March 31, 2022

Walking from Valldemossa to Deia

We took a bus from Soller to Valldemossa in the morning. Before hitting the trail we first took a little walk around Valldemossa. It really lives up to its name and reputation - beautiful. We didn't linger longer as we had to get on with our hike.

We had chosen a path that is one side of a triangle as opposed to the GR221 that takes the two sides. Twenty minutes into our program we found out that our path goes on private land, that we would have needed to request permission ahead of time, or pay a toll in the form of olive oil purchase. Not knowing the legitimacy of the project and given the existence of a slightly longer way on the public land, we started on the Cami de ses Basses.

On the Cami de ses Basses, there were amazing vertical views to Valldemossa. I was glad we came this way! Then all of a sudden, I had the terrible feeling that I no longer had our credit card, with all the consulting of routes and shedding of jackets, I ended up putting the phone in the same pocket as the credit card, never mind I had five other empty pockets all with closure. Our thorough search unfortunately confirmed my premonition. Could I have had a stupider move?! We turned back to Valldemossa, looking for the card, without much hope. Back in town, John called Capital One and locked the card.

Determined not to let the credit card ruin our day, we started back on the trail. The trail through the public land was well maintained and traveled. Soon after we joined where we would have come out on the private land, we found ourselves walking high on the cliff with a sea view. It was such a heady feeling, almost vertigo. Soon Deia came into view, far below. At which point, we joined GR221, started on 800m descent into Deia. Originally we had ambitions of walking all the way back to Soller, half way into the descent, we realized we'd be taking the bus from Deia to Soller.

Deia turned out to be a little underwhelming, maybe because at one point we thought to base ourselves in Deia, instead of Soller. We now would rank Deia behind Valldemossa and Soller in every way. We were happy to get on the bus for the 12km ride back to Soller. Maybe losing the credit card saved us from slogging all the way back to Soller. Always remember to look for the silver lining.

Bus Stop seen out the bus window on the way from Soller to Valldemossa. Wow! Bus Stop seen on the bus from Soller to Valldemossa, Majorca, Spain

Strolling through Valdemossa before hitting the trail. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

Looking from the City Hall to the Church. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

The City Hall (below) and Church have distintive cupolas. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

Viewpoint down to Valldemossa near the spot where SL realizes the credit card was missing. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

Ascending through a rocky forest as we head to Deia. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

Dueling photos of each other as we walk through a pass at 750 meters above sea level. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

Switchbacks as we head up to pas de Son Gallard. Switchback - Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

And we get our first glimpse of Deia in the distance. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

It's an 800+ meter drop to the Mediterranean Sea. Great views and worth the uphill efforts. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

We stop at a mirador on the GR221 for a short break. Deia is now in full view below. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain

There is time in Deia before the bus comes to take a walk around town and have a view back to the mirador where the previous photo was taken. Walking from Valldemossa to Deia, Majorca, Spain Back in town we buy some Majorcan oranges. Soller, Majorca, Spain

The Soller Church and City Hall (lit up in support of Ukraine) at night. Love to Ukraine - Soller, Majorca, Spain

Wednesday, March 30, 2022

Hiking a Soller Circuit

It didn't occur to us to come to Mallorca until the week before we were flying to Spain! And we didn't decide to base ourselves in Soller until a few days ago. We only cobbled together this program the day before since the weather was not so good. What a great day of hiking it was!

First, we walked, in the rain, on the road from Soller to Biniaraix, to catch the old road up the gorge. What a beautiful gorge! At the top of the gorge we had to do a waterfall crossing without a proper bridge, before connecting with GR221 back down the gorge. We didn't see anyone on the old road going up; on the way down we counted a few hundred people going up and down! The scenic gorge is deservedly popular. We got the particulars of the route from this website and their other programs look good too.

Then we walked on the road from Biniaraix to Fornalutz, to head up to the Mirador Ses Barques, before returning back to Soller. While these trails were not nearly as popular as the GR221 through the Barranc de Biniaraix, there were hikers all over the place, to our amazement. Now we really appreciate how and why Soller is a hiking mecca of Mallorca. It just took us a while to catch on.

Sun-Ling (right) and I board our flight from Valencia to Palma, Majorca. Valencia Airport (VLC) - Valencia, Spain

You can tap your personal credit or debit card to pay for most bus and train trips in Majorca. No need to buy a transit card and put money on it. How cool is that? On the Bus to Sóller, Majorca, Spain

The main plaza in Soller with church, cafe umbrellas, and tram tracks. Sóller, Majorca, Spain

Starting our hike in Biniaraix under rainy skies. Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

Looking back to Soller which is surounded by olive and orange groves. Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

Part of the hike was on the nicely maintained GR221. Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

Looking across the gorge to the switchbacks of the GR221 trail. Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

Still raining as we head up through the terraces. Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

View to a waterfall across the gorge. Waterfall - Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

I'm a bit soaked after several hours walking in the rain, but I did NOT fall in the creek! John Is All Wet - Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

The sun comes out and all is well on the GR221 as we head to Fornalutx. Walking on the Old Road - Biniaraix, Soller, Majorca, Spain

Sun-Ling spotted a pitcher plant along the trail. Carnivorous  Plant - Walking the GR221 Dry Stone Route - near Soller, Majorca, Spain

Walking through the narrowest part of the gorge. Walking the GR221 Dry Stone Route - near Soller, Majorca, Spain Walking the GR221 Dry Stone Route - near Soller, Majorca, Spain

A group of hikers goes by us. Walking the GR221 Dry Stone Route - near Soller, Majorca, Spain Walking the GR221 Dry Stone Route - near Soller, Majorca, Spain

The boss of Fornalutz. Barnyard Boss - Fornalutx, Majorca, Spain

Walking up from Fornalutz to Mirador Ses Barques. Walking from Fornalutx to Soller, Majorca, Spain

View to Soller Port from Mirador Ses Barques. View to Soller Port - Walking from Fornalutx to Soller, Majorca, Spain

Heading downhill through the terraced olive groves to Soller. Walking from Fornalutx to Soller, Majorca, Spain Walking from Fornalutx to Soller, Majorca, Spain Walking from Fornalutx to Soller, Majorca, Spain

Almost back to Soller; the church is in view. View to Soller - Walking from Fornalutx to Soller, Majorca, Spain







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