Complicated Cuernavaca, Morelos

Cuernavaca is the capital of Morelos. Our plan was to use it as a base and hub, except we had a hard time figuring out how. The city has at least six bus terminals. Both the state and city tourist offices are equally inept. It seemed like we were spending all of our time making the rounds to those places. Once we found our answers, we began to see the city has a few gems.

• The Museo Gaia has a compelling collection of Mexican art, in a beautiful house, that was owned by the actor Caontinflas who was great friends with Deigo Rivera, who designed the splendid pool mosaic. 
• The Robert Brady Museum is like a house out of a magazine. Robert Brady was an American painter and collector from a midwest trucking fortune.
• The Juan Soriano Cultural Center was in between exhibits, but the sculptures were a continuation of our surrealist tour. 
• The Cortez Palace was closed from 2017 earthquake damages. The museum has Diego Rivera murals.
• Borda Garden is a tropical version of a formal garden. José de la Borda's fortune came from 18th-century Taxco silver. The estate hosted a visit from Emperor Maximilian. 
• David Siqueros had his workshop a couple kilometers from the center. We didn't go.

I couldn't ignore the pattern that's emerging here. Cuernavaca used to be quite a magnet for the rich and famous.

On the way from Orizaba to Cuernavaca we passed several pelotons of pilgrims. Below are photos of the back and the front of the same group.




Our hotel room faced the Plaza Principal and although very noisy, it was big and had a sunrise view.






We were surprised to see that our hometown Kripy Kreme Dounghnuts are sold here in addition to the usual Doritos variations.




Giant Letters.


The Cathedral nave has large wall frescos attributed to a Japanese convert.






The facade of one of the chapels adjacent to the Cathedral.


A tasty lunch at the friendly, family run, Hari Comida Vegana.


MUSEO CASA GAIA as a swimming pool with a mosaic designed by Diego Ribera and ...


... a painting by Saturnino Herrán ...


... a Diego Rivera sketch of a proposed mural.


After a lot of walking, and many questions, we finally found the Cuernavaca tourist office near these colorful murals.






Shopping at the Mercado.




Museo Morelense De Arte Contemporáneo Juan Soriano




The Museo Robert Brady, located in his former home, was filled with art and color; even in the bathrooms and kitchen.












The governor of Morelos gave his annual State of the State speech one evening, after which there was a long and loud concert in the plaza. ;-( Many people came to hear the speech which was duly broadcast on TV.




One night there was dancing in one corner of the Plaza.




Borda Garden.

Skippable Cordoba, Veracruz

Fifteen miles away from Orizaba is the town of Cordoba, founded in the 17th century by Spain on the route between Veracruz and Mexico City to protect the interest of the crown from attacks from enslaved indigenous people. We were expecting some nice colonial architecture; however, even the main square was not particularly interesting. We did manage to score a nice vegetarian meal before heading back to Orizaba.

On the bus from Orizaba to Cordoba we see Pico de Orizaba from the best angle yet.


Cordoba Cathedral.




Mural in the main staircase at the Municipal Palace.


Municipal Palace.




Moorish-ish fountain.


A view from the City Museum to Pico de Orizaba.


We ate a tasty lunch at La Lechuga Vegetariano.


On the way to catch the bus back to Orizaba we walked past this spiffy, green, modernist, Lions Club building.