The bus from Sighet to Gura Humorului was tiny, packed, often an inferno, and noisy.
Thankfully during the 5 hour ride our fellow passengers were courteous to us and each other and the driver stopped for a 10 minute or more smoke break every hour or so.
The area around Gura Humorului in the Bucovina Region of Romania is known for its colorfully painted monasteries. We saw two our first day, Humor and Vonoret, walking 27 kms on back roads and trails. There was a flash of life and death drama on the way as we were attacked by a pack - 7 is a pack yes? - of sheep dogs as their young shepherd/master was unable to control them. Whew.
The second day we rode the bus to Moldovița. Being Sunday the service was in progress when we arrived at 8:50 AM and was still going strong when we left at 10:20. The monastery has about 40 nuns including one who gives tours of the paintings with her laser pointer in animated Italian - sorry no photo.
One of the breaks on the bus was at the top of a pass through the Rodna Mountains. It was nice and cool for a few minutes at 1400 meters.
A huge painted Easter egg on the town square in Gura Humorului.
Walking along the Humor River to Humor Monastery.
Once in Humor we rousted this stork from it's nest.
The Humor Monastery Church has no spire and a single watch tower.
A great walk from Humor (in the distance) back to GH...
...although we were about to be attacked by dogs...
...as this photo was taken.
The dog attack behind us - no blood no problem - it was mostly downhill back to town after a brief stop at the very windy stone bench marking the top of the hill.
On the road to Voronet we passed these guys ploughing their garden.
The church at Voronet is known as the Sistine Chapel of the Orient mostly because of the Last Judgement painted on the western exterior wall.
The Moldovița Monastery.
This is part of the Siege of Constantinople painting (with the Christains winning).
The nun is beating a wooden drum to signal the start of the liturgy.
The morning sun on the walls.
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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Tuesday, April 29, 2014
Sunday, April 27, 2014
Sighet and Around
Since we left Cluj on a 7AM bus, we arrived in Sighetu Marmației at noon and had plenty of time to find a hotel and then head out to Săpânța to see the so-called Merry Cemetery. There are no buses to Săpânța so we eventually figured out out to find a private car for hire. Well, they kinda find you. If you are standing in the right spot - in this case on a corner near the crosswalk after the roundabout - a black station wagon, usually a VW, will pull up and shout their destination. If that's the way you are headed then you're set. So after 20 minutes of standing in the wrong spot, a helpful local got us in a car to Săpânța.
Sighet, only 1 km from the border with Ukraine, marks the northern most point of this trip at almost 48 degrees north latitude. After seeing the Merry Cemetery the first afternoon, we subsequently made day trips to the surrounding valleys to see the old churches, the one at Budesti is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and to check out what's left of the old ways: farming, architecture, dress, and religion.
The tombstones at the Merry Cemetery are painted in blue and have scenes and verse recounting the decease's life and in some cases death.
Sighet, only 1 km from the border with Ukraine, marks the northern most point of this trip at almost 48 degrees north latitude. After seeing the Merry Cemetery the first afternoon, we subsequently made day trips to the surrounding valleys to see the old churches, the one at Budesti is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and to check out what's left of the old ways: farming, architecture, dress, and religion.
The tombstones at the Merry Cemetery are painted in blue and have scenes and verse recounting the decease's life and in some cases death.
We rode the bus to Bârsana to see the new Monastery and the Old Church. It happened to be April 23rd, St George's Day (of dragon slaying fame) and the Monastery was busy with a seemingly continuous outdoor service.
We walked the 4kms from the Monastery to the Old Church enjoying the sites on the way: locals on bikes, wooden gates, fields, and houses.
The Old Church at Bârsana.
Headed to the Festival (we think).
It is not uncommon to see a horse cart in downtown Sighet.
The border with Ukraine is just 1km from Sighet. We walked to the Romanian side of the bridge for a look.
The Thursday Market at Ocna Sugartag.
Near Sarbi.
Traditional water mill to wash wool - Sarbi.
The Old Church at Sarbi. We were surprised to see sheep skin rugs inside.
Church foundation and wooden bell.
Budești Lower Church (1643) - a UNSECO Monument.
Budești Upper Church.
Walking to Breb.
Making Cheese.
Inside the church.
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