Tuesday, March 20, 2018

Epic walk to Montalcino

On the one good weather day we were supposed to have in the Orcia Valley, we planned for a long walk.  First we followed the Via Francigena to Torrenieri, then up to Montalcino, then back San Quirico d'Orcia. 

Via Francigena was easy to follow, even though we are going away from Rome.  Montalcino is very high up from the valley, higher than any other hill town we have been.  The town itself is rather unremarkable, which means they have to grow more grapes and olives; and they do.  There are a lot more vineyards around, old and new.  

Once we descended from Montalcino to the valley, the trail started to get sticky muddy.  We were getting tired and it was slow going.  Then when we were finally 3 kms from home, we were abruptly stopped at a river crossing; the Asso.  I guess all the rain had made a raging river out of a low creek.  At that point, we were both ready to bail.  We walked 1 km to the on-ramp of the main road, hitched a ride with the first car that came along.  We were back home, rescued by the super hospitable Italians.

We bought a bottle of of Nobile wine while in Montepulciano and enjoyed it for several evenings in San Quirico.
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

We set out on the Via Francigena towards Torrenieri. The hills were green, skies blue with lots of white clouds, trail perfect. And the Via Francigna goes right by our hotel (at left in front of Sun-Ling).
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

And has plenty of signage.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

With infopoints and benches.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking in Val d'Orcia - Tuscany, Italy

Walking in Val d'Orcia - Tuscany, Italy

Walking in Val d'Orcia - Tuscany, Italy

The Torrenieri RR Station closed in 2015, but there was a fine early 20th century building across the street, and a cantina for pilgrims on the outskirts.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Leaving Torrenieri, we have Montalcino in our sights high above.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Many vineyards around Montalcino.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Almost there. One final uphill.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Taking a break; the view is magnificent, but still some work to do to get up top.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Ah. Finally a city gate.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

We walk to centro and the City Hall Tower.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Wine for sale in the main piazza - they do get some tourists - most drive up.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

There is a Fortezza (Fortress) at the highest point.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

I fill our water bottle in front of an old church.
Walking in Val d'Orcia - Tuscany, Italy

Then down, down, down to the valley with some pretty good views on the way.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Then the road turns to mud and we walk in the adjacent field instead. This photo reminds me of the Andrew Wyeth painting Winter 1946.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

The countryside looks amazing in the late afternoon light.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking in Val d'Orcia - Tuscany, Italy

We spot the RR Crossing which means we cross the River Asso and after logging 27 kms are only 3 kms from home.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Oh no! We are not getting across this torrente.
Walking to Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

So we consult the map and walk towards the main road where a friendly local gives us a ride back to our hotel.





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