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Tuesday, April 16, 2019

Walking the Kumano Kodo - Part One

Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrim routes to three major shrines in the southern Kii Peninsula. Along with Camino de Santiago, those are the only two pilgrim routes approved by UNESCO; therefore, we should have a look.

Since we only want to do dayhikes, we based ourselves in Shingu in a traditional Japanese house next to the train station, convenient for bus and train. We all rather liked our base. We later realized that most visitors stay at the bigger town of Katsura.

Arrival day we walked around town in Shingu. According to our landlady, the cliff shrine was original shrine. Shingu (new shrine) was built when local people wanted a better home for their deity. On the first full day, we walked from Yunomine Onsen to Hongu, which turned out to be an adventure. When we were on the main trail to Hongu, we realized that foreigners outnumber Japanese 10 to 1. On the second day (stay tuned for Part Two of this post) we walked to different sites in Nachi area, bused to Katsura, walked around Katsura, bused to Koyasaka, and walked home.

We all had fun because we got to hangout with our friends. Otherwise, I think Kumano Kodo might be overrated.

As soon as we were settled in our apartment in Shingu, we headed out for an afternoon walk up, up up the amazing stone stones steps to Kamikura Shrine, a big rock with great views back to town and the Pacific Ocean beyond.
Kamikura Shrine 神倉神社 - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Kamikura Shrine 神倉神社 - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Looking back to Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Back down.
Kamikura Shrine 神倉神社 - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Kamikura Shrine 神倉神社 - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Kamikura Shrine 神倉神社 - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

And then along the hills to one of the 3 important shrines on this part of the pilgrimage trail, Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine.
Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Kumano Hayatama Taisha Shrine - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

And then up to Shingu Castle ruins for some views; first across the river, then back to our house.
Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

And home to our house (Airbnb) - following the Kumano Kode trail markers - where SL cooked up a tremendous pile of veg noodles.
Kumano Kodo  Trail Marker - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

Sun-Ling cooks up some tasty fried noodles - Shingū, Wakayama, Japan

The next morning we rode the bus to the Hongu Taisha Shrine bus stop and visitor center where there is a marker commemorating the only 2 pilgrimage trails designated as UNESCO World Heritage Monuments; the Way of St James and the Kumano Kodo.
Near Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

There is also a 90-foot tall Torii.
Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

However we did not visit the Hongu Shrine but instead took the bus to Yunomine Onsen trailhead, planning to walk back to Hongu.
Yunomine Onsen - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Problem!!!The trail north to the halfway point at Hosshinmon-oji is closed. No problem just go under the ribbon much to the horror of Jinhong. ;-0 Photo below courtesy of JinYi.


The trail was closed - do to trail work and landslides - so we had it all to ourselves. A very fine walk. There were trail markers every 500 meters counting down how many 500-meter segments to the end of the trail.
Near Yunomine Onsen - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

We crossed this not-yet-repaired landslide with no trouble. For context, that black pipe is about 2 feet in diameter.
Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Photos below courtesy of JinYi


At at the very end of the trail a bridge was out but the temporary bridge worked just fine.
Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

We were all very, very happy to complete the "closed" trail and walk out past the "trail closed" signage and barrier.
Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

The "open" trail to Hongu Taisha was fairly busy with mostly Western tourists.
Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Sun-Ling bought some "honor system" mushrooms for dinner.
Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Viewpoint above Hongu Taisha.
Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Hongu Taisha is very similar to Shingu Taisha minus the red colors.
Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

And down the steps back to the bus stop.
Kumano Hongu Taisha 熊野本宮大社 - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

GPS track for the day.
GPS track - Kumano Kodō - Kii Peninsula, Japan

And another fabulous fried noodle dinner with local mushrooms.
Sun-Ling cooks up more fried noodles in Shingu, Japan

After dinner we walked up to the Shingu Castle.
Castle - Shingu, Japan

Castle - Shingu, Japan

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