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Wednesday, October 30, 2019

Archaeological Sites in Lima

It seems the more we travel, the more we are into archaeological sites.  This time we went to Pachacamac, just to the south of Lima, and Huaca Pucllana, right in Miraflores; both somehow escaped us before.  While I distinctly disliked the tight control of ambulation at both sites, personal takeaways were huge.

1. Cotton came from Peru.  While cotton was also independently domesticated on the India subcontinent, it took the longer fiber of New World cotton to derive at the cotton we have today.  My ignorant mind somehow had Egypt as the home of cotton, ugh.

2. I had understood before that unlike Mexico City (built right on top of the conquered empire), Lima was founded in a completely new place, though with advice from Incans.  However, I learned on this visit that both Pachacamac and Huaca Pucllana were built by the Lima Culture which predated Macchu Picchu by a millennium.  Though the Incans didn't continue at Huaca Pucllana, they were living at Pachacamac when the Conquistadors arrived.  Lima has a very unique climate, while it averages less than 0.3in of annual rain, it's foggy/cloudy for at least half of the year.  Having just come from the blazing California desert, I am relishing the sunless days.

With advice from the helpful, and seemingly always open, Barranco Tourist Office, we caught Bus L to Lurin right on the Plaza and in an hour later, after a change to a local bus, we were in the Pachacamac Site Museum - lots of English signage and helpful staff.

Site Museum - Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

The site itself is rather desolate. And large.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

Looking back to the museum.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

A cotton plant in the site demo indigenous plants garden.
Cotton Plant - Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

The Mamacones Enclosure, a highlight according to the usual guides books, was left unstable in a recent earthquake and can only be seen, not visited. You can see the distinctive trapezoidal Incan doorways.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

One of the 16 pyramids on site. Pachacamac was primarily a religious pilgrimage destination with 16 pyramids and one main temple; the Temple of the Sun.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

The North-South road.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

This is the modern road that allows foot and vehicular traffic access to the far reaches of the site.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

A residence that was sacked by the Spanish.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

View to the Temple of the Sun (Templo del Sol) from our lunch spot. It is NOT a pyramid but a temple built on top of a promontory.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

Ongoing archaeology at the base of Templo del Sol.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

View from Temple of the Sun to the nearby modern town of Pachacamac.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

View from atop Templo del Sol south along the coast and Pan-American Highway.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

And the view East to towards the Site Museum.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

The most imposing side of the Templo Del Sol which faces the sea (Pacific Ocean)...
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

...with this view today.
Archaeological Sanctuary of Pachacamac - Pachacamac, Peru

And we take the Metropolitano home.
Barranco, Lima, Peru

The Metropolitano is also very convenient for visiting Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site in Miraflores. Get off at Angamos.
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Huaca Pucllana features a 7-level pyramid built out of millions of adobe bricks.
Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

The site is surrounded by roads and buildings and not subjected to conservation until 1981. Visits are by guided tour only (included in the admission).
Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Jar with shark motive. The site was a temple dedicated to controlling saltwater and freshwater resources.
Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

And again cotton in the native plants garden.
Cotton - Huaca Pucllana Archaeological Site - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Arriving in Miraflores just after the rush hour, we were finished with Huaca Pucllana by 10:30 and set off to look for an electric kettle - no luck - and walk back south to Barranco, about 3 miles along the Malecón (coastal greenway).
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Tremendous lunch at a vegetarian restaurant: soup, segundo, juice, yogurt, and dessert.
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Then over to the Malecón where we sat and watched paragliders for over an hour. A lot going on at this particular landing pad: tandem flights for tourists plus locals practicing and learning.
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Miraflores, Lima, Peru

This guy with the blue chute never got off the ground. He was just working on controlling his chute in the manner of flying a kite.
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Tandem.
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Walking south on the Malecón to Barranco.
Miraflores, Lima, Peru

No visit to Miraflores is complete without a visit to Larcomar Shopping Mall.
Larcomar - Miraflores, Lima, Peru

Looking south from Miraflores to Barranco.
Looking south from Miraflores to Barranco, Lima, Peru

Looking north from Barranco to Miraflores.
Looking north to Miraflores, Lima, Peru

2 comments:

Kathy said...

You didn't try a tandem flight? Not something I want to do, but I imagine the views are good.

john said...

Kathy, LOL. No tandem flights for me. Yes, the views would be awesome but I would not be enjoying them; too nervous, just short of terrified. -john

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