Ayacucho is known for its Semana Santa, which we consciously avoided in 2011 by opting to staying in Cusco instead. This time of the year, the city seems lively enough. The weather is warm. The historic center evokes the colonial past, beneficiary of the mines of Huancavelica. Ayacucho's main square is arguably the most beautiful in the whole of Peru. There are quite a few Peruvian visitors from other parts of the country. There is something going on everyday, dancing, processions, music,
comparsa, though information is hard to come by.
To think such a vibrant city until twenty years was still under the aftershocks of Shining Path and subsequent government crackdown. People around the world more or less all want the same things; some are under a better system than others; there is only so much control an average person can have.
We checked into the Yanez Inn, our home for the week, and set out looking for iPeru tourist information but immediately ran into a parade of students celebrating the founding of their school. This set the tone for the week.
Let's get right to the food. No kitchen privileges at Yanez Inn although breakfast was included; however, there are 2 vegetarian restos in Ayacucho, both with lunchtime set menus, but no dinner menus. We preferred Buena Salud at Jr. Tres Mascaras 239 for lunch: professional service, busy, and a menu that included an appetizer, drink, soup, and entree for 7 soles (2 USD).
For dinner, we found a regular non-veg resto near the Yanez with a 5 soles dinner menu, and kind servers who "got" our requests for dishes without meat. Soup, and an entree, plus a drink. Here's my fav, lomo saltado, hold the lomo; ie, fried onions, tomato, carrots, and potatoes, with rice.
Not to mention the even closer Alfredo's Burger whose 3 sol portion of twice fried potatoes must be the best tasting, best value, porcion de papas fritas in all of South America.
We also found lots of veggie street food: yuyu (greens and corn kernels), puca picante (spicy beets and potatoes). These are usually sold by street vendors stationed just outside places where folks want a quick, filling, snack: markets, bus terminals, hospitals, etc. Below the yuyu is green and the puca red.
More yuyu.
It's pretty easy to devour a small bag of aguaymantos (aka Cape Gooseberries).
SL says above that there's something going on every day, like a dance recital at the Teatro Municipal featuring Marinera dancers.
And a performance by local El Maestro Ricardo Cardenas to celebrate his new book of songs for the piano.
The 6th International Wind Instrument Festival with a free outdoor concert in front of La Compañía de Jesús on the final night. Here's a shot of La Compañía de Jesús during the day with the Music School at right.
Brief snipet of "My Love".
And seemingly impromptu parades, comparsa, around the Plaza.
One day there was a large confirmation ceremony at the Cathedral presided by a Catholic cardinal.
Very moving that a parent, usually the mother, stands behind the newly confirmed with a hand on their shoulder.
The Plaza.
The Plaza is surrounded by buildings with beautiful colonial courtyards.
The Plaza as seen from the roof of the Cathedral.
And the Plaza as seen from Via Via before, during and after a downpour.
Comparsa.
One day we went to the Archaeological Museum and adjoining Jardin Botanico.
The monument outside the Museo de la Memoria depicting the double terror: the knife of the Shining Path and the gun of the Military.
And inside...
