Sri Lanka: Mihintale

Based in Anuradhapura, we visited the Mihintale Hills, about 18 kms by road to the northeast, said to be the site where Sri Lanka became Buddhist when the Sinhalese King was converted while hunting. It's a rather popular pilgrimage destination for Sri Lankans. The hill is dotted with monastery ruins and stupas of varying age and degree of preservation. There are magnificent views of the surrounding country at the top of Minthale Rock(250 meters) and Elephant Stupa (311 meters), not easy climbs in the tropical midday sun.

There were a lot of monkeys all over the site, as many places in Sri Lanka. I should have been more alert when I saw on the way up a monkey eating out of a banana leaf lunch packet still in a plastic bag. When we finished with the site, hungry and hot, we stopped at the concession for a drink and ice cream. As John held our purchases in hand, and I was working on paying, a monkey flew in to grab the ice creams from John. Amazingly John shook off the monkey. The monkey only made away with part of the wrapping, but John ended up with a scratch, an inch long, slightly bleeding. This incident totally reinforced my weariness for monkeys which had been going on for some time. If I don't see another monkey for the rest of my life, it would be quite okay!

We rode the local bus to Mihintale.


And up the stairs we go towards Mihintale Peak, taking a side trip up to the ruins of Kantaka Chetiya (Stupa)to check out the elephant reliefs (3D sculptures).








Of course we had to check out the remnants of the monastary's refectory, and its giant stone feeding troughs "canoes".




Views from Mihintale Peak, and the steep steps up and down.






View back to Mhintale Peak.


The view west back to Anuradhapura. The white stupas of Anuradhapura can be seen in the far distance.


View down to Kantaka Chetiya (Stupa)


View back to Mihintale Peak from Elephant Stupa.


Elephant Stupa is the highest point of Mihintale. Great views all around. Second below is Sun-Ling pointing back WEST to the stupas of Anuradhapura (very far right).






John + Monkey. But not the one who tried to steal our ice creams. ;-) And a photo record of my slight, bloody scratch.

Sri Lanka: Jaffna

Jaffna, the biggest city in the north of Sri Lanka; and being the historical base of Tamils in Sri Lanka, had suffered much from the 1983-2009 civil war, though one can hardly tell walking around. Just one notable building, a Dutch Colonial building (1st below) used by both militaries during the war, has been left unrestored.

The civil war in Sri Lanka has much in common with late-20th century conflicts in Cyprus and Ireland. Colonial rule based on divide and conquer had sown deep seeds of distrust and resentment. Yet divide and rule has become a modus operandus for swaying voters in democratic elections around the world.

At the moment Jaffna seems very peaceful. In the evening locals enjoy the sunset from the promenade by the fort (2nd and 3rd below).









There are a number of Hindu temples in Jaffna. The huge Nallur Kandaswamy Temple (1st below, no photos allowed on the grounds) was fascinating. Besides the usual no shoes rule, all men must take their shirts off.

We have rather liked going around to Hindu temples in Sri Lanka. They are very welcoming. We could go wherever other people go, unlike many Hindu temples in India which are rather restrictive. There, either we weren't allowed in, or there were too many people around, I couldn't see what's going on.

However, at the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple (in the course of two hours) we got to see all sorts of rituals, such as arti (waving of fire lamp around deities), bathing or dousing deities with buckets of water, chanting, music (drumming and wind instruments), processions, bonfires, prostrations, and more.



There are more Hindus in the north of Sri Lanka than in the south; thus more cows roam the streets as seen below on our bus ride from Trinco to Jaffna.


Jaffna Railway Station has been restored from almost total ruin.


Giant fruit-eating bats are common in Sri Lanka. We spotted this colony roosting while sitting in a park. Yikes! Cool!


Folks in Jaffna were friendly.


St. Mary's Cathedral is huge with three perpendicular naves and a bell tower.






A Tasty South Indian lunch at Vijitha Cafe


Jaffna's Clock Tower (1882) may be the most pleasing ever.


And how about the Public Library?


Hindu Temple at Night. Near our hotel.

Sri Lanka: Trincomalee

Trincomalee, on the east coast of the island, is the least touristed city of our Sri Lankan tour. There are beach resorts a few kilometers to the north, but the town itself does not see many tourists. And it's a nice town to visit!

The city is set on a peninsula, with further peninsulas and promontories jetting out, so there are all manners of beach and waterfront promenades. Over the weekend we were there, they were enjoyed by many local people.















The spiritual well being of the populus is also well catered for. There are a multitude of churches, mosques, Hindu and Buddhist temples. We could see a Hindu temple from our window (1st below).











The highlight is supposed to be the much vaunted Kandasamy Hindu Temple, set at the end of the promontory. We timed our visit to the late afternoon ritual, and ran into a special ceremony welcoming an important dignitary.









What I was surprised to find was the Kali Temple. While the outside (1st below) is very typical South Indian style, the inside is a fantastical riot of figures and shapes. John and I struggled to recall whether or how many times we have seen such wonders in India, if ever.