Instead of the usual single loop, our whole Sri Lanka tour is in the shape of an 8 all because of Navam Maha Perahera at the Gangaramaya Temple. And we were amply rewarded. Easily making into our top 10 processions, the Navam Maha Perahera is a riot of colors, outrageous costumes, exuberant participants, and dozens of elephants!
There was a small preview procession before dusk two days before the full moon. The first procession was in the evening before the full moon. We didn't expect the procession on the full moon to be identical to the previous evening. It was less crowded - obviously the locals knew. We were totally okay - how many times in our lives do we get to see such a fantastical act? Now we don't feel compelled to make it to the much touted August Poya festival in Kandy.
Gangaramaya Temple, the sponsor of the festival, is modest in size but large on visual stimulation, and the area around the bodhi tree is always busy.
The evening before the first full moon procession, there was a dress rehearsal of sorts. We were surprised to see a female mahout (elephant trainer). The sights and sounds of the costumed dancers heightened our anticipation for the main event.
The festival procession was well attended. One could stand or sit along the curb, or sit in plastic chairs on raised platforms. At first we stood, then sat after a policeman's suggestion.
Jumping right to the highlight of the procession; that is, the three abreast elephants carrying the temple's most sacred relic on the back of the middle elephant, with functionaries riding on the backs of the other two. See the video 3rd below or click here.
To recap the rest of the procession: first come very solemn men cracking whips, then the lamp lighters.
Then men with flags and banners; then the first of dozens of elephants.
The first of many dance groups. Most groups were 100% men, but some were mixed and some were 100% female.
Then, a group of very prosperous men with attendants.
Many of the dance groups featured masks. Each dance group was accompanied by live drummers and flutists.
Then, a succession of plate spinners, stilt walkers, peacock strutters, busy bees, and fire twirlers.
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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3 comments:
so spectacular, and so different from Buddhism tradition in china. thanks for all the great videos and photos!
Very impressive festival! Liz
@WQZ - We were also amazed. "This is Buddhism?" we would ask ourselves. Thanks for the comment!
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