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Thursday, March 28, 2024

Sri Lanka: Jaffna

Jaffna, the biggest city in the north of Sri Lanka; and being the historical base of Tamils in Sri Lanka, had suffered much from the 1983-2009 civil war, though one can hardly tell walking around. Just one notable building, a Dutch Colonial building (1st below) used by both militaries during the war, has been left unrestored.

The civil war in Sri Lanka has much in common with late-20th century conflicts in Cyprus and Ireland. Colonial rule based on divide and conquer had sown deep seeds of distrust and resentment. Yet divide and rule has become a modus operandus for swaying voters in democratic elections around the world.

At the moment Jaffna seems very peaceful. In the evening locals enjoy the sunset from the promenade by the fort (2nd and 3rd below).

Dutch Kachcheri Ruins - A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Sunset at Jaffna Fort - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Sunset at Jaffna Fort - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Sunset at Jaffna Fort - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

There are a number of Hindu temples in Jaffna. The huge Nallur Kandaswamy Temple (1st below, no photos allowed on the grounds) was fascinating. Besides the usual no shoes rule, all men must take their shirts off.

We have rather liked going around to Hindu temples in Sri Lanka. They are very welcoming. We could go wherever other people go, unlike many Hindu temples in India which are rather restrictive. There, either we weren't allowed in, or there were too many people around, I couldn't see what's going on.

However, at the Nallur Kandaswamy Temple (in the course of two hours) we got to see all sorts of rituals, such as arti (waving of fire lamp around deities), bathing or dousing deities with buckets of water, chanting, music (drumming and wind instruments), processions, bonfires, prostrations, and more.

Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil - A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

There are more Hindus in the north of Sri Lanka than in the south; thus more cows roam the streets as seen below on our bus ride from Trinco to Jaffna.
On the Bus from Trincomalee to Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Jaffna Railway Station has been restored from almost total ruin.
Jaffna Railway Station - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Giant fruit-eating bats are common in Sri Lanka. We spotted this colony roosting while sitting in a park. Yikes! Cool!
Giant Fruit Bats Roosting - A Long Walk - Nallur, Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Folks in Jaffna were friendly.
A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

St. Mary's Cathedral is huge with three perpendicular naves and a bell tower.
St. Mary's Cathedral - A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

St. Mary's Cathedral - A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

St. Mary's Cathedral and Bell Tower (right) -  A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

A Tasty South Indian lunch at Vijitha Cafe
Lunch - Vijitha Cafe - A Long Walk - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Jaffna's Clock Tower (1882) may be the most pleasing ever.
Clock Tower - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

And how about the Public Library?
Jaffna Public Library - Jaffna, Sri Lanka

Hindu Temple at Night. Near our hotel.
Hindu Temple at Night - Jaffna, Sri Lanka


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