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Sunday, October 04, 2026

Slovenia: Lake Bohinj Part One

From Dobbiaco, we took OBB Austrian trains to reach Jesenice, Slovenia at the edge of the Julien Alps. We had wanted to head directly to Kranjska Gora, 24km away, except they are hosting a big international series of trail runs this weekend. There was not a room to be had. So, we are spending the weekend at Lake Bohinj.

Normally there is a train between Jesenice and Lake Bohinj, but there is work on the tracks this week, so we ended up on the "replacement bus". They didn't send enough buses - a few folks had to stand - plus it ran behind schedule. I'm not impressed with Slovenia so far. We were in Slovenia 25 years ago. It seems they could have made more progress in the intervening years. I may be judging them too harshly....

The upside to the replacement bus was we went by Lake Bled. We were there 25 years almost to the exact date. I wasn't impressed then, now I know it was because I saw it on a cloudy day. The lake is a completely different color in the sun. The other thing I noticed is that 25 years ago Lake Bled had been shut down for the season. This time we saw all manner of water activity: sunbathing, swimming, paddleboarding, etc. I attribute the difference to climate change. John thinks maybe there are just in general more people traveling, resulting in more activities.

Lake Bohinj is quiet and serene. We based ourselves in Stara Fuzina, just north of the lake. The village still has a traditional feel; that is, you can smell the barns. The first day we rode the train to Most na Soci where the Soca river is dammed for hydroelectric before it is joined by the Idrijca river (this post). The Soca is known for its turquoise color, and we plan to explore its upper part later in a few days (next post).

We board the spiffy RED OBB Austrian Train at Lienz.
We Board the RED OBB Train At Lienz  - By Buses and Trains from  Dobbiaco, Italy to Lienz, Austria, to Stara Fuzina, Slovenia

Then change to a blue Slovenian train at Vallach.
We Change Trains at Vallach - By Buses and Trains from Dobbiaco, Italy to Lienz, Austria, to Stara Fuzina, Slovenia

Buying the "Replacement Bus" tickets from Jesenice to Bohinjska Bistrica, Slovenia
Buying the "Replacement Bus" Ticket from  Jesenice to Bohinjska Bistrica, Slovenia - By Buses and Trains from Dobbiaco, Italy to Lienz, Austria, to Stara Fuzina, Slovenia

The Replacement Bus stopped in Lake Bled - an unexpected bonus as it slowly moved around the lake perimeter.
Lake Bled - By Buses and Trains from Dobbiaco, Italy to Lienz, Austria, to Stara Fuzina, Slovenia

Once settled in Stara Fuzina, we strolled down to Lake Bohinj (bowHEEN) to check out the sunset.
Stara Fuzina, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

Sunset at Lake Bohinj - Stara Fuzina, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

Sunset at Lake Bohinj - Stara Fuzina, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

Sunset at Lake Bohinj - Stara Fuzina, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

Sunset at Lake Bohinj - Stara Fuzina, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

On the way back to our guesthouse we passed a traditional hayrack.They are all over the place in rural Slovenia.
Traditional Hayrack - Stara Fuzina, Lake Bohinj, Slovenia

Our end of Stara Fuzina was more of a rural village than a tourist village.
We Walk in Mostnice Gorge - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Grape Vine - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Barn - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

Vogar Blato Walk - Stara Fuzina, Bohinj, Slovenia

At Bohinjska Bistrica Station, waiting for the train to Most na Soci.
Bohinjska Bistrica Station - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

Bohinjska Bistrica Station - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

While we were waiting the novel-to-me "car train" arrived. All the cars drove off the far end, several cars drove onto the train (first below), and the sturdy green locomotive moved from one end of the train to the other for the return trip (2nd below).
Car Train - Bohinjska Bistrica Station - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

Car Train Locomotive - Bohinjska Bistrica Station - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

The Station Master at GROHOVO Station is cranking away.
Station Master at GROHOVO STATION - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

While walking from Most na Soci Railway s\Station into town, we foraged the best tasting fig ever.
Foraged Fig - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

Soca River confluence.
Soca River - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

Soca River - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

In Most na Soci, one can see ruins of a Roman house, at least one traditional hayrack, and a vintage three-wheeled light blue Piaggio Ape work vehicle.
Roman House - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

Traditional Hay Rack - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

A Vintage Three-Wheeled Light blue Piaggio Ape - Day Trip from Stara Fuzina to Most na Soci, Soča Valley, Slovenia

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