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Thursday, December 09, 2010

Cajamarca is scrumptious

Very few places are comparable in historical significance as Cajamarca, Peru where the Spanish Conquistadors effectively ended Incan rule. It has tons of historic architecture, big-hatted indigenous people, and bustling vendors. What really got my attention is the amazing quantity of cheese, chocolate, pastries, and other treats, in addition to usual mountains of fruits and vegetables. It is totally my kind of place!

Some photos from Cajamarca, starting with architecture.

Hot Springs in Banos del Incas, just outside Cajamarca. It was here that the last Inca King Atahualpa rested before he was captured by Francisco Pizarro.

Hot Springs - Banos del Incas, Peru

Centro Cajamarca has narrow streets lined with old colonial buildings.
Cajamarca, Peru

Plaza de Armas with 17th century fountain.
Fountain - Cajamarca, Peru

Iglesias San Francisco.
Igelsia San Francisco - Cajamarca, Peru

Big-hatted lady spinning thread while walking in Plaza de Armas. At left is a gelatin vendor with wares in bucket. In back you can see part of a military ceremony.
Sombrero - Cajamarca, Peru

On the van to Otuzco.
Sombrero - Cajamarca, Peru

Typical street scene with big-hatted ladies and moto-taxi.
Ladies with Sombreros - Cajamarca, Peru

We bought some sweet chocolate balls from this street vendor. She's digging them out of the basket. She also sells disks of unsweetened cooking chocolate (in basket) and cheese (basket at right).
Chocolate Vendor - Cajamarca, Peru

Cheese shop.
Cheese Shop - Cajamarca, Peru

Cakeman and VW van.
Cake Man - Cajamarca, Peru

Mangoes are in season and 4 (or 5) can be bought for 1 New Peruvian Sol - about 35 cents US.
Mangoes - Cajamarca, Peru

Random colorful market shot. Not sure what those "sauces" are.
Mercado - Cajamarca, Peru

Wednesday, December 08, 2010

Revelation on cemeteries

It seems to me that we are always visiting cemeteries on this trip. John and I both come from families big on cemetery visits and during our previous travels we had toured various cemeteries. It had never bother me. In fact I find cemeteries tranquil and spiritual. That is until this trip. Why? The cemeteries on this trip all have above-ground vaults occupying the same air as I do. Way too much spiritualness for me.

Today we went to the archeological site of "Ventanillas de Otuzco" (300-800 AD), a prehistoric burial site, just outside Cajamarca. I was looking in the face of the source of all my heebie-jeebies.

John commented that the modern cemeteries in South America look a lot like this prehistoric one. What do you think?

Cementerio - Tulcan, Ecuador
Cementerio - Tulcan, Ecuador

Cementerio - Mompox, Colombia
Cementario - Mompox, Colombia

Cementerio San Gabriel - Quito, Ecuador
Cementerio - Quito, Ecuador

Cementerio - Tulcan, Ecuador
P1040537

Necropolis - Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru
Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru

Necropolis - Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru
Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru

Necropolis - Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru
Ventanillas de Otuzco - Cajamarca, Peru

Tuesday, December 07, 2010

Chachapoyas is about epic journeys

  1. It took an epic journey to come to Chacha (see previous entry).
  2. From Chachapoyas, we took a day tour to Kuelap, a major pre-Incan ruin. The site is 1200m above the main road, but our van had to take a 360 degree counterclockwise 60km ramp along the side of the mountain. It took over an hour of driving while we could see the site the whole time!
  3. One day we took a shared taxi to see the Sonche Canyon at Huancas; then walked back to Chacha. At the canyon mirador Sun-Ling was befriended by the very polite and sweet local children.
  4. Another day we took a shared taxi to a village, Levanto, which is probably 10km as the crow flies. Again it took us almost an hour going up and down ramps on dirt roads. We walked back on the Inca Road. Because of poor directions, we went up and down the network of Inca Roads in a futile search for Yalape, a minor pre-Incan ruin. We walked for six hours non-stop and barely made it back before dark.
  5. Leaving Chacha was yet another epic journey. We got up at 4am in order to catch the 5am bus for an 11-hour journey. For the first seven hours we zippered back and forth on long mountain ramps and switch backs, from high Andes mountains to low Amazonian oasis and back up again.

The walls of Kuelap tower above the valley.
Kuelap Fortress - Chachapoyas, Peru

The approach to Kuelap.Kuelap Fortress - Chachapoyas, Peru

John and Sun-Ling pose at the narrow main entrance.
Kuelap Fortress - Chachapoyas, Peru

Inside the walls there are ruins of 500 circular dwellings. You can see some ruins in front and a reconstructed house in back.
Kuelap Fortress - Chachapoyas, Peru

View from Kuelap.
Kuelap Fortress - Chachapoyas, Peru

Sun-Ling and friends at Sonche Canyon.
Huancas, Peru

Sonche Canyon.
Sonche Canyon - Chachapoyas, Peru

Sun-Ling on the Inca Road between Levanto and Chachapoyas.
Sun-Ling on the Inca Road from Levanto to Chachapoyas, Peru

In the Andes between Chachapoyas and Celendin, Peru as seen from the bus window.
On the road between Chachapoyas and Celedin, Peru

Another shot from the bus window. The deep green in the valley is a mango oasis.
P1080154

Monday, December 06, 2010

Drinking water on the road

When traveling we pretty much drink and eat as locals do although as vegetarians we don't eat meat or fish. In particular I take my cues from cleanly dressed ladies when it comes to selecting food stalls, restaurants, or street vendors. The fact we are vegetarians and we travel with Ciproflaxin for major episodes and a Chinese medication for minor upsets makes us pretty liberal with food and drink.

For water, we drink tap water from the hotel if the locals say they drink the town's tap water, and we almost always use tap water for brushing teeth. When tap water is considered non-potable, we get or boil our own water (as in China), get filtered water from hotel (pretty rare), fill from hotel's water cooler (not very often), or buy water as a last resort in order to cut down on the amount plastic we use. Our family mule not only goes through a lot of feed, he can drink a lot of water each day. When we do buy water, we buy the largest size bottle we can comfortably handle. For this trip, we have been able to get 5-liter bottles in Ecuador and 5-liter bags in Colombia, which we decant into our two, 1-liter nalgene bottles: one wide-mouth and one narrow-mouth. We also carry 2 small metal mugs.

Our strategy has worked pretty well in general, except John got parasites in Burma which he got over by himself. In fact he did not even know he had them until well after he was all better. I got parasites in Nepal which took me a while to diagnose and had to take medication.

This trip we have been doing well so far. We have been mostly over 2000m (7000ft). It is either sunny and dry or cold and wet, not very conducive for bacteria growth. Besides, boiling water does not help as much, since water boils at lower temperatures. We can even tell just from drinking boiling hot coffee which seems to be "ready to drink". Even at lower altitudes I suspect people are pretty apt to use pesticides. Lastly the population density in the New World is not same as the Old World; that makes everything better.

Thursday, December 02, 2010

A Journey: Ecuador - Peru border crossing

For our route, the Zumba-La Balsa crossing is most direct of the three overland crossings between Ecaudor and Peru. It's the most scenic but supposedly the most difficult journey (the border formalities here are considered "easy" on both sides). We gave ourselves three days instead of the normal two for everyone else that seems to be on this amazing race. We had read and heard first hand harrowing reports of unpaved roads, landslides, greedy transports, and dangerous towns. I made myself a chart (below is an updated version). I had this picture in my head of someone pushing me over with my backpack on and running away with my money belt – my definition of a dangerous town.
Segment Transport mode Time Cost Notes
Vilcabamba - Zumba Bus 6 hours $6.5pp Overnighted in Zumba
Zumba - La Balsa Ranchera 1.5 hours $1.75pp
La Balsa - San Ignacio Squished shared taxi 1.5 hours S/12pp
San Ignacio - Jaen Minibus 3+ hours S/12pp Overnighted in Jaen
Jaen between terminals Moto rickshaw 10 minutes S/1.5 Road work
Jaen - Bagua Grande Shared taxi 1.25 hours S/9pp Road work
Bagua Grande - Chachapoyas Shared taxi 3 hours S/22pp Road work

As usual, things turned out to be as easy as pie, except
  1. The road on Ecuador side is worse Peru. In fact, at the rate that we suffered from road construction work delays in Peru, in the very near future it will be full fledged highway.

  2. The ranchera ride was an experience. It was physically demanding. We had to work hard to stay on the bench, not fall to the floor or out of the truck, which was really regretful as there was no chance of photographing morning mist over the mountains. On the graveled switchbacks the ranchera was what I remember a roller-coaster to be minus the upside down part. There was so much jostling that our netbook did not turn on that evening.

  3. Coming from Ecuador, the transportation cost in Peru seemed very high. We kept suspecting that we were quoted Gringo prices, but each time we watched fellow passengers pay exactly the same amount.

  4. We were told Jaen was a dangerous town and spent endless time researching and contemplating whether to overnight there. It turned out to be a perfectly safe and friendly place. Our only regret was not to have taken a cooler and air-conditioned room. There were more moto rickshaws than pedestrians in town which may freak some people out.

It is a tremendously scenic journey through varied landscape. We are so glad that we came that way!

The church in Zumba. P1070733

The Zumba to La Balsa ranchera as it was loading. P1070734

The main Plaza in Jaen, Peru as seen from our hotel room. P1070735

Unedited video of part of the moto-taxi ride from our hotel to the Bagua Grande colectivo stand.



Stopped due to road work on the road from Jaen to Bagua Grande. P1070736

Stopped due to road work on the road from Bagua Grande to Chachapoyas.

P1070737

And finally installed in a big hotel room in Hostal Amazonas in Chachapoyas. P1070738

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