Kazakstan: Almaty

From Bishkek it is an easy bus ride to Almaty, capital of Kazakhstan until 1997, still the largest city in Kazakhstan, about two million people. We will finally fly home from here. Below is the view out the bus window near Targap, Kazakhstan, about halfway between Bishkek and Almaty, and on the north shore of Lake Issyk Kul.



Founded by Russians in the 1800s, Almaty seemed to be the most developed city on our Stans tour. We happened to arrive on May 9th, Victory Day, (photos below)commemorating the victory of the Soviet Union over Nazi Germany, widely celebrated in the former Soviet Union. It was rather festive. However the holiday is not without controversy. Central Asia was basically Russian colonies. Colonized people were coerced into fighting their colonizers' war. They had a worse deal than the Sri Lankan and Tajiks mercenaries that are fighting in the Russia-Ukraine War. There will be wars as long as there are victory celebrations. Maybe somber remembrance days would make for more a peaceful world







We also happened to be in town on a Friday. The mosque was overflowing with worshippers (photo below). During Soviet time, half of the city's population would have been Russians. Many have since left, today it is about 20%. There are various day trips from Almaty, but none too close. We ended up spending the whole time in the city.



May 12 is Thomas Sunday or Bright Sunday. St Nicholas Cathedral was festive!



As we were headed home to the US, we made several excursions to the Green Bazaar to shop for souvenirs and gifts






On the day after Victory Day, there continued to be lots of activity near the Eternal Flame and War Memorial monuments.






Ascension Cathedral was busy on Victory Day as well.










One day we rode the metro to start a walking tour of Soviet Modernist Architecture (and more)






The Kazakh State Circus (SIRC)




The Wedding Palace


The Fog Fountain at Caspian University = FUN!!!




The Independence Monument


A Mosaic Mural at the Kök-Töbe Sanatorium


The Arman Cinema


Statue of Abay Kunanbayev (front), Palace of the Republic Concert Hall (rear)


The striking Kazakhstan Hotel.








Museum of the Kazakh Academic Drama Theater


The Bauhaus Main Post OFfice.



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Kyrgyzstan: Bishkek

From Karakol we took the bus that went along the north shore of Issyk-Kul in the TianShan mountains to Bishkek, capital of Kyrgyzstan. This time of the year snow capped mountains are still a backdrop for the city.



As a city, Bishkek only dates back to the 1800s, established by the Russians, and today has a million people. We spent much of our time looking at Soviet architecture and touring markets. It seems we have been to an extraordinary number of markets in Central Asia. I am beginning to wonder whether markets are a vestige of their nomadic heritage.

Nuts, dried fruits, and more at the Osh Bazaar.





We even made a pilgrimage of sorts to the Dordoi Bazaar, on the outskirts of the city. It turned out to be a highlight. This is a market, maybe the size of a dozen Home Depots, made entirely of shipping containers. Some have been cleverly disguised, most are stacked two tall with the shop on the first level and stock storage on the second level. The market seemed like a poster child of sustainable development.









Below are photos taken from our bus on the 6-hour journey along the north shore of Issyk-Kul from Karakol to Bishkek. The large building is a sports stadium (4th below), and home of the first three World Nomad Games (WNG).










Our apartment in Bishkek (our "city view" is 1st below) was directly behind the Soveiet-Era Sports Palace which "sports" the best equestrian statue we've ever seen (2nd below). Agree? It's a monument to the legendary wrestler Kozhomkul.






Bishkek was decorated for the upcoming 09 May Victory Day celebrations. Although the day commemorates the participation of the Soviet Republics in the 1945 victory over the Nazis, several local people told us "we are not so enthusiastic" as Kyrgyz people were disproportionately used as cannon fodder, while few ethnic Russians did not serve during World War II.






Leafy alamedas with drink ladies on many corners (2nd below): MAXIM (Coffee, Left), Chalap (Fermented Milk, Center), Kvass (Fermented Rye Bread, Right). Kvass is John's fav.






THe Orthodox churches in town were filled with flowers for Bright Week, the week after Orthodox Easter.








We found a 24/7 cafeteria, АШКАНА (ASHKANA) Dining Room Buffet, with friendly staff, and tasty vegetarian food at a reasonable price, and we ate 2 delicious meals there.






Soviet Modernist architecture in various states of repair, refurbishing, and glory.








Soviet Art.






More Soviet Modernist Architecture. First the National Library of Kyrgyzstan


Wedding Palace


Institute of Chemistry of the Academy of Sciences of Kyrgyzstan with Statue of Poet and Storyteller Kalyk Akiev




State Circus; and an Osh Bazaar panorama.