Lebanon: Unlikable Beirut

In keeping with our usual bad luck, we picked the most inopportune time to visit Beirut.  I would have skipped Lebanon if we didn't already have non refundable plane tickets in and out of Beirut. In February  the official Lebanese Pound (LL) devalued by 90% from 1500 to $1 to 15,000  Three days before our arrival, the Lebanese pound approached 140,000 to one USD on the black market, banks and pharmacies closed their doors. Protests and riots ensued. I was sweating for the Lebanese and ourselves.

Then the Central Bank removed limits on exchange to dollars, the rate went back down to around 107,000 to $1. Things calmed, and thankfully remained so for the week (March 23-30) we were there. It is very disconcerting being in a failed state. 

• The largest bill is 100,000 LLs which is less than $1, and they are all brand new.
• Electricity only comes a few hours a day. Our hotel gets the rest from a private market, so we had 24-hour electricity, albeit with many flickers.
• After the riots, the center of downtown was still barricaded off. It's a ghost town. The few tourists in town were allowed to roam around inside the barricades.
• Amidst such a crisis the top news was what time the country was observing. Because of Ramadan fasting, Lebanon wasn't going on daylight saving times this year. Then there was enough opposition, on the Thursdays it was. 

Even before this state of things, I would not have liked Beirut. Beirut must be the most modern and developed city without any public transportation, at least where I have been. Instead there are glitzy shopping centers.and soulless residential/commercial development. The city has this hedonistic vibe, without any regard to social and societal issues. This extreme inequality is even worse than LA. No wonder they are having problems!

On a positive note, we met so many wonderful Lebanese people, very welcoming and helpful, which makes the current situation all the more heartbreaking.

The National Museum of Beirut was very good. The museum building is Art Deco style circa 1930's.


How about this Sarcophagus with a scene from the life of Achilles, 2nd century AD?


And these marble, anthropomorphic sarcophagi 4th century BC. Wow!


We walked along the Corniche several times, people watching and enjoying the views of the Mediterranean. Although there were some very decrepid buildings there.












Art Deco Clock Tower and Assicurazioni Generali Building in Nejmeh Square.




The Roman Baths below the tightly guarded and off limits Parliament Building are surrounded by a nice park.




Our apartment in Beirut was on an alley off Hamra Street that was quiet during the day and a bit noisy after the Ramadan fast was broken at sunset. Below is an early morning view.


One day for lunch we tried out Luna's Kitchen which bills itself as " Beirut's First 24/7 Vegan Diner". Average. LK is located on the ground floor of a colorful modern apartment building.




Another day we ate Lentil Soup and Fatoosh at Whistles Snacks. Second photo below shows the prices. 200,000 Lebanese Pounds for a Fatoosh Salad! Talk about inflation!




We checked out the Archaeological Museum at the American University of Beirut, AUB. Below is a photo of the main entrance to AUB.


Bus route #4.