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Sunday, June 07, 2026

Crete: Sougia

One of the top activities for Crete is the Samaria Gorge walk which opens May 1st. Suspecting overhyping and we are still before May 1st, we opted for Agia Irini Gorge walk. We really had to work around the bus schedule, which runs only Monday/Wednesday/Friday. So on Monday we first took the bus from Heraklion to Chania, went to leave our big bags at our Chania hotel, got on the 13:45 for Sougia, got dropped off at the top of the Agia Irini Gorge, and started walking down.

For the first four kilometers there was a running stream, and a number of water crossings. Luckily, we survived with only one wet sock and partially wet boot. Then the water was diverted, it became a dry canyon for another three kilometers. The gorge is a super enchanting place. As a result, we went extra slow. When we finally emerged on the final four kilometer road to Sougia, the sun was beginning to set. Some time later, a nice lady picked us up and saved us a couple of kilometers of walking, and she told us all about the very striking dragon lilies. When we reached Sougia, we were relieved to find our beachfront room was still waiting for us.

Sougia is a tiny village on the south coast of Crete facing the Libyan sea. John loved it. We spent the next day walking west through the Lisso Gorge to the Lisso Archeological site. On Wednesday we walked east on the E4 a little bit before returning to Chania on the 15:30 bus, trying to rest up for more walking in Chania.

We arrived in Chania with an hour to kill before our bus to the trailhead of the Agia Irini Gorge Walk. So we grabbed a couple of super tasty falafel wraps at Falavela, and admired the snow-capped mountains in the distance.
Falafel Wraps at Falavela - Chania, Crete, Greece

Chania, Crete, Greece

The trail started out easy and well marked.
Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

But then a series of switchbacks took us down into the heart of the gorge, and to the first of many stream crossings. .
Switchbacks - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

The deepest, most narrow section was amazing, and slow going.
Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

The Gorge introduced us to the amazing Dragon Lily. First below, no flowers yet.
Dragon Lily - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Dragon Lily - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Dragon Lily - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

As it was getting dark, we tried to pick up the pace, but that was NOT easy walking over makeshift bridges, and through the rocky, but dry stream bed.
Bridge -  Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

We popped out of the Gorge and still had to walk 2 kms to the main road, and 2 kms more to Sougia and our hotel. Once we hit the main road we started hitch-hiking and soon had a ride, and were in our "sea view" room at Zorbas just after sunset.
And We Are Finished! - Agia Irini Gorge - near Sougia, Crete, Greece

View from our Room at Zorbas - Sougia, Crete, Greece

And the same view for breakfast!
View from our Room at Zorbas - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The path to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site was well marked, and we easily navigated through a small canyon.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

More Dragon Lilies. Woohoo!
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

A steep uphill led to a seeming never-ending trudge in the sun across a scrubby plateau.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

Then a break for lunch with views down to the old port and the Lisson archaeological site. There is a temple, not visible from here, and a small odeon/theatre which can easily be spotted.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The ruins of the ancient temple.
Temple Ruins - We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The Odeon up close.
Odeon/Theatre - We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The water was very clear at the small, pebbley Lissos Beach.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

The return-the-same-way walk back to Sougia.
We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

Baby Goat - We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

We Walk to the Ancient Lissos Archaeological Site and Return - Sougia, Crete, Greece

Lissos is west of Sougia, on our last morning we walked to the east on the E4 trail to catch some great views, and more Dragon Lilies. The first view is down to Sougia, the second is the other way.
Sougia, Crete, Greece

Sougia, Crete, Greece

Sougia, Crete, Greece

And we left Sougia on the afternoon Friday bus.
The 3:15 pm Bus  from Sougia to Chania, Crete, Greece

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