We took the public bus to Bethlehem, checking off the birthplace of Jesus and the West bank in one go. Unlike the Holy Sepulchre, the Church of Nativity was architecturally harmonious, except the line for the nativity cave was even longer than at the tomb, and looked particularly slow moving. We gave it a miss too.
The rest of the town was not unlike Jordan. Taxi drivers are even more aggressive than in Egypt and Jordan. Feeling much sympathy for the Palestinian and wanting Bethlehem to be a better place for visitors, we made a friendly complaint to the tourist police. "You only spend money there (meaning Jerusalem), not here!" - while the accusation is very accurate, harassing tourists only makes matters worse; that is, most people then visit on a tour, not independently. The dispute over Jerusalem might seem ideological; it also has far reaching economic consequences.
Coming back into Jerusalem, there was a checkpoint. Everyone, except the elderly (e.g. John, hahaha) had to file off the bus for an ID check, yet another example of control and intimidation.
The Super Low entrance to the Church of the Nativity.
Entering the church, one looks past the hanging silver chandeliers towards the gleaming golden iconastasis.
To the right of the iconostasis is the head of the line of folks waiting to go down into the basement of the church to visit the spot of the birth of Jesus.
Looking back at the long line of people waiting one sees the beautiful Byzantine wall mosaics.
Manager Square, often featured on Christmas Eve TV news broadcasts, is very low key.
Walking back to the bus stop through the market.
Returning to Jerusalem, I noticed the expressway that connects West Bank Bethlehem with Jerusalem is in a corridor "protected" by a fence.
Sun-Ling and John have been traveling the earth since 2008 while blogging, eating vegetarian and vegan, and riding public transportation. We love uphill day hikes, 20th-century architecture, Roman ruins, all bodies of water, local markets, shopping for groceries, aqueducts, miradors, trip planning, blablacar, and more.
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2 comments:
I am shocked that John was considered elderly!
@Liz, I thank you. That was exactly how I felt. As we stood to file off the bus, an older Palestinian man gestured to John that he could stay. A very kind young Palestinian woman said to me, "you need to go, but he (John) can stay." When she saw my confusion, she mumbled something about 60 years old. I kept thinking to myself - how could they tell?! John doesn't seem old to me at all - maybe that's why this demanding trip is wearing John and me out :(
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