Friday, May 19, 2023

Jordan: Mixed Petra

Petra was established by the Arabic speaking Nabataeans in the 6th century BCE in a canyon that is reminiscent of Antelope Canyon in Arizona. The Nabataeans carved more than constructed their monuments, most during the 1st to 4th centuries CE.

We spent two days exploring the place. The second day being a Saturday, there were many South Asian guest workers from UAE enjoying their day off. I had not expected the need to avoid weekend crowds at Petra. Day 1: We visited the Treasury, Monastery, and Museum. Day 2: We walked to the Royal Tombs, Treasury Vista II, and High Place of Sacrifice.

I loved the canyon part. Traipsing around to see archeological sites is usually interesting, though I am afraid everything seems anticlimactic after Egypt. We had several other issues with Petra.

The place is full of aggressive souvenir stands, camel/donkey/horse rides, tea shops, toutes of every kind, and whatnots. There is more peddling and commercialism than a village fair. All the best viewpoints are occupied by "tea shops" which are really eyesores. While it is not exactly trashy, there is usually some piece of trash in sight. I wouldn't have begrudged all this, if we didn't already pay $109 US each for a 2-day Petra Jordan Pass. (BTW, If one needs a 2km golf cart lift, that's $25US one way and $40US roundtrip).

There is exactly socialism for the rich (guaranteed money by Jordan Pass) and capitalism for the poor (bedouins scrambling after tourists on what must have been their land). Just while we were there, we witnessed a fist fight break out between two young camel drivers. The real winners of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade are not Harrison Ford or Steven Spielberg, they are the corrupt Jordanian officials. We have been to hundreds of UNESCO sites. Petra is by far the most poorly managed. 

Walking to the Treasury via the Siq (Shaft), 1.2 kms of narrow gorge.
Petra, Jordan

Walking "The Siq" -  Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking "The Siq" with Camels! -  Ancient Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

The so-called Treasury as seen from ground level and the vista point above.
Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

The get to the start of the climb up to the Monastery, one passes the stunning Nabatean/Roman Theatre cut out of the red rocks, the Byzantine Church and its mosaics, and the tumbled, colorful columns of the Lion's Temple.
Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

It's a steep walk or donkey ride up to the Monastery from where there are fine western views towards Palestine.
Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

After walking down from the Monastery, winding through more visitors, donkeys, and horses, we stopped to check out the remains of the Qasr al-Bint temple and the massive Great Temple which was probably a civic building, not a temple.
Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Highlights of the Great Temple for us were the huge hexagonal flagstones of the courtyard, the small theater embedded in the main section, and the tumble-down columns.
Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Petra, Jordan

Walking back to the entrance through the Siq.
Petra, Jordan

The Site Museum.
Petra, Jordan

Giant Letters.
Petra, Jordan

The 2nd day at Petra we first walked past the Royal Tombs, carved out of the rock, to get on the trail up to the Treasury Vista.
Royal Tomb - Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

View from the Royal Tombs.
Panoramic View - Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

The old trail to the Treasure Vista has great views to the west including looking down on the Nabatean/Roman Theatre.
Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

The Treasury is to the right. A tea seller's tent at left is perched on the best viewing point.
Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Finally we walk up the old path to the Twin Obelisks and High Place of Sacrifice. Video link here.
Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

View down to Royal Tombs.
Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

Walking back down the old trail.
Walking Above Ancient Petra, Jordan

3 comments:

Liz said...

Great pictures!

Kathy said...

Wow, that sounds quite different from my experience. But that was 2009...

Sun-Ling said...

@Kathy, even sadder....

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